What's on my plate

The Great Divide

2008-01-30T22:11:00.000-08:00

As most Melburnians will know all too well there is a rather stark divide between those who live north and those who live south of the river. The split has become particularly apparent of late with The Writer having returned from overseas and the search for our first place together in progress. He grew up south of the river but having lived most of his adult life on the other side he is now quite firmly attached. Apart from a year of city living since moving from Sydney I have always lived south of the river and having become oddly attached. I know where to go for a heavenly steaming bowl of pho, a dress for a last minute event and the best quality fruit, vegetables and seafood at bargain prices. Then there’s the other issue, the big issue, lazy weekend breakfasts.

The Writer and I are both quite fond of Saturday mornings with the paper spread out over a café table accompanied by coffee and perfectly poached eggs. In the inner-northern suburbs we have an attachment to Ray, it having featured heavily in our early dating days. With sweet temptations like the toasted pide with labna and rosejam it’s no wonder we’ve kept coming back. The Writer is partial to the savoury varieties of pide, in particular the pesto, tomato, mozzarella and prosciutto. I’m drawn to the beautifully balanced sweet and salty combination of roasted caramelised pumpkin and baby spinach with feta and olive tapenade.

On the south side of the river we find ourselves making regular visits to Amici Bakery Café. Although it’s the reasonably priced and perfectly executed café breakfast options that bring us back, you can’t help but melt when you get your first sight of the bakery counter windows filled with rhubarb tartlets, berry charlottes and quivering vanilla slices. I would have photographed the assortment of patisserie delights but that would have involved elbowing out at least a dozen people queuing for a loaf of sourdough and perhaps a strawberry tart for good measure. Instead I have for you my first venture into the sweet breakfast items at this venue; cinnamon french toast topped with caramelised bananas and maple syrup. Any one of those components would be enough to make me a little weak at the knees but together they make the perfect weekend indulgence. The thick slices of casinlinga soak up the syrup beautifully.

The Writer opts for the Amici Big Breakfast, a towering plate of poached eggs, pesto potatoes, bacon, chipolatas, mushrooms, tomatoes and relish. It’s the little things that Amici does so well. The addition of pesto to the cottage potatoes is simple but makes them delightfully moreish. The eggs are perfectly poached and the chipolatas beautifully spiced. This is not your standard fry-up but like the ideal fry-up it’s the sort of comforting breakfast fare that is always completely satisfying. The portions are incredibly generous and The Writer is defeated. Luckily I don’t hesitate to venture with my fork across the table.

The Amici has a strong local following but is worth trekking across town for and at just over $10 for breakfast and coffee, its prices are comparable to its northern counterparts. With a great use of space you almost never need to wait for a table although that doesn’t mean that some locals aren’t queuing at the door to get in and who could blame him?

Amici Bakery Cafe
242 Chapel St, Prahran
Tel 03 9529 7770
Sun-Thurs 7am-7pm
Fri-Sat 7am-midnight

Ray
332 Victoria St
Brunswick 3056 VIC
Phone: (03) 9380 8593
Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm
Sat-Sun 8am-5pm

Sunday Kitchen

2008-01-28T20:08:00.000-08:00

Come Sunday there is no excuse to not fill the house with wonderful aromas. It’s the perfect day for food that takes just a little bit longer. Some weekends, however, you don’t want to be chained to the kitchen yet still crave the deeply flavoured fare that only comes with slow cooking. Those are the Sundays I set an intensely flavoured stock to simmer in the morning, inhale its delicious aromas throughout the day and return in the evening to find the perfect base for a deeply comforting dinner.

This is not your standard nursery food stock of carrots and celery, although that certainly has its place. This aromatic beef broth with hints of South-East Asia and layers of spice is the perfect beginning for a quick noodle soup or a slow cooked hotpot filled with meltingly tender meat. In the colder months I favour the latter but while the weather is still pleasant I like to pair it with quickly grilled transparently thin slices of tender marinated beef. While I can’t make any promises as to authenticity I can assure you of the sort of deliciousness that has your scraping the bowl for that last spoonful of broth.

This is also my entry to Presto Pasta Nights hosted by Ruth at Once Upon a Feast.

Spicy Beef and Rice Noodle Soup

Serves 2

Stock
1 kg chicken bones
1 knob ginger
1 onion quartered
4 cloves garlic with skin
1/2 tsp peppercorns, lightly crushed
2 cardamom pods, crushed
1 stick cinnamon, broken into pieces
1 tsp brown sugar
3 star anises
fish sauce
1 packet rice noodles

Grilled Beef
300g/10oz scotch fillet
2 tsp sesame oil
2 cloves garlic crushed
2 tbsp soy sauce

To garnish:
Sliced spring onions
coriander
sliced fresh chilli
beansprouts
lemon wedges

In a non-reactive bowl rub your beef with the sesame oil, crushed garlic and soy sauce. Place in the fridge to marinate.

In a dry pan briefly toast your star anise, cinnamon, peppercorns and cardamom.

Place your chicken bones in a large pot and fill with enough cold water to cover the bones completely. Bring the water to the boil and add the remaining ingredients except the noodles and fish sauce. Turn the heat down to the smallest whisper, cover with a lid and leave to infuse over the course of the day. For a quicker stock you can turn the heat up to a simmer and leave for just 30 minutes.

When you are ready to eat skim the stock and strain. Season with fish sauce to taste. Return to the heat.

Prepare the rice noodles according to package instructions. These usually require you cover them with hot water until they are softened.

While the noodles are softening, on a grill pan or bbq briefly sear the scotch fillet on the highest heat. The meat will continue cooking once added to the soup so you are only seeking a charred exterior with a meltingly pink interior. 2 minutes per side should suffice.

Drain the noodles and add them to the pot of warm broth. Slice the beef as finely as possible.

To serve divide the noodles between two bowls and ladle over the broth. Arrange the beef slices on top and scatter with bean sprouts, chilli, coriander and spring onions. Serve with lemon wedges.

Madrid

2008-01-10T23:36:00.000-08:00

There is something about landing on Spanish soil that makes me deeply happy. It is hard to be gloomy even momentarily in a country where you start every day at the humane hour of eleven with crisp churros accompanied by a hot chocolate so thick you could stand a spoon in it.

To me this is a country of indulgence, relaxation and the most intoxicatingly rich culture I have ever encountered. After my visit to Barcelona earlier this year I was firmly convinced I could happily spend a lifetime in Spain and even a few days in Madrid on this trip were enough to lift the spirits and leave me smiling for weeks.

Perhaps unsurprisingly my holidays are structured around gastronomic delights. After the consumption of the aforementioned pastries are the best hours for some leisurely sight seeing before the customary lunch hour at 3pm. No visit to Madrid would be complete without a morning at the Museo del Prado. With the most exceptional collection of masterpieces, it is impossible not to be moved. Squares such as Plaza Mayor have a delightfully rich atmosphere but the overpriced meals in tourist haunts dotted around them are best avoided.

It's a joy just to wander and you can easily stroll from the Prado to the Palace at the other end of town. Surprisingly the historic quarter of Madrid is sufficiently quaint and small that within hours the geography seems familiar. Although Barcelona will always be my first and greatest love, I adored Madrid. Its grand architecture and majestic monuments stand in contradiction to the slower pace and quieter nightlife.

Of course all that walking will leave you famished but fortunately sustenance is to be found in the laneways surrounding Calle de Postas. Unpretentious cervecerias or beer bars are filled with the gentlemen of Madrid enjoying a drink and a cigarette. A plate of jamon and a cold frothy beer will only set you back a few euros and is almost customary at around 1pm. If you adore charcuterie as much as we do you’ll struggle to go past the chain known as Museo del Jamon dotted around town. Lined with deli counters packed with jamon, cheeses and pastries surrounding a bar where shoppers, tourists and locals stop for a beer and plate of chorizo, it’s the type of food chain I wish we had back home.

If you’re ready to sit down to lunch at 3pm and already in the area it is hard to go past Restaurante Rodriguez on Calle de San Cristobal, steps away from Calle de Postas. With three course lunches starting at around ten euros including wine and coffee, you would be hard pressed to find better value for money. The restaurant is filled with Spanish families raucously devouring platters of paella and finishing with a light flan or some seasonal fruit. Grandparents dish up portions of grilled whole fish while grandchildren joyously run around the table. It isn’t hard to understand that you’ll inevitably require a siesta after dining at this establishment but you won’t be alone as the city winds down for the late afternoon hours. Given the Spanish affinity for late dinners, it’s only fitting you prepare yourself for a long night.

Refreshed and ready to take on the town, an excellent place to start is Las Huertas. This street of cervecerias and tapas bars was recommended to me by a friend with a wonderful knowledge of food and drink and a better understanding of the Spanish language than I could ever wish for. When in Spain we have always tended to graze on tapas rather than sitting down to a heavy meal in the evening. I adore this approach not only because you get to experience a wider assortment of food but because you get to meet more wonderful people. A champagne and garlic prawns here, sangria and octopus salad there with cold beer and a terracotta dish of spicy chorizo to finish perhaps.

You will get countless recommendations about where to find the best cuisine from locals, perhaps that perfect custard filled pastry to seek out tomorrow morning. The willingness of the Spanish people to share stories about their own lives and the secrets of their cities is what draws me back to this place. Not only is it sensationally beautiful and filled with the most wonderful food, history and culture but the sort of people you would like to spend your life surrounded by. As we wander home in the early hours it’s all too easy to start planning a move to this wonderful country so that every day can be so exciting and perfect.

Winter in Paris

2008-01-07T22:25:00.000-08:00

I am undoubtedly not alone in finding a winter in Paris to be deeply romantic. Spending our days perusing markets for fromage and baguette to savour in our little apartment, far away from the hordes of tourists, was nothing short of heavenly. We discovered the lesser known but ever so delightful museums and galleries in our neighbourhood. Frequenting the same bakeries for our morning pastries and coffee and the same bars for our evening glass of wine made Paris start to feel like home.

Around the corner from our apartment

Our little apartment overlooked the rooftops, a short walk from Montmartre and Sacre Coeur and the most wonderful markets lined with charcuteries, fromageries and pâtisseries. Best of all just next door was the perfect neighbourhood bar. It became an evening routine to pop in for a drink or watch the soccer before going out to dine or back upstairs to prepare the day’s market gastronomic delights. The charming barman would give us little complimentary treats each night, perhaps some orange filled chocolates or a taste of a cinnamon scented spirit prepared on the premises. It was also the perfect place to grab a quick baguette filled with pâté or sausage to sustain us as we set out to explore Paris on foot. It was all too easy to imagine living in this beautiful city forever.

View from our apartment window

Parisian Markets

Apart from the wonderful array of produce in our neighbourhood, the market we were repeatedly drawn to was the Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter. Cheese shops and florists bursting with blooms spill out along this idyllic street and tucked between them are small bistros serving classic French fare at reasonable prices. Even at 8pm in winter the street is filled with shoppers seeking out the best produce. It’s a delightful sight seeing hundreds of Parisians making their way home on foot or by metro with a baguette tucked under their arm. Rue Mouffetard was the perfect place to seek out Toulouse sausage for a warming winter casserole to be eaten in front of the television with plenty of baguette or a little pâté to nibble with wine as we prepared dinner.

Dining out

With such a brilliant cornucopia of produce available we rarely dined out. As we wandered the city on foot, we would however stop for an espresso or two sipped at the bar or a slice of tart that looked particularly enticing in a pâtisserie window.

When we did dine out we favoured unpretentious neighbourhood bistros. The type that features herby roast legs of lamb, steak and frites and duck confit followed by the simplest crème brulee and accompanied with plenty of wine.

In the evening I was particularly attracted to the sort of older bistros where young Parissien couples repeatedly send the waiter away when he comes for their order because they can’t draw their eyes away from each other long enough to look at the menu. When they do finally order and the food descends on the table it’s something utterly delicious and rustic like a platter groaning with roast chicken for two with the crispest potatoes and buttery green beans. At lunch I favoured those neighbourhood bistros packed with locals where businessmen meet their wives for lunch and linger over a cheese platter far longer then they intended. I can understand why people say it’s easy to fall in love in Paris but what I never knew before is that when you’re in love there’s no better place to be.

Yuletide Cheer

2007-12-23T00:00:00.000-08:00

I know of late I have been unacceptably absent but to those of you who have followed this blog over its first year, I’d like to wish you a very Merry Christmas. Perhaps the most notable indication of my absence is that my last post was also a Daring Bakers one but unfortunately life and travel have got in the way. Very soon I’ll be bringing you some delicious moments from Paris and Madrid. Until then I give you my fourth Daring Bakers challenge, the Yule Log.

For those of you that don’t celebrate Christmas, Ivonne and Lis’ selection also represents life, prosperity, warmth, protection and light during the dark winter. All good things. Although the burning of the Yule Log is associated with European cultures, this delightful creation spreads Christmas cheer all the way to the southern hemisphere.

While fiddly and time consuming, this challenge was yet another joy to prepare. There were just enough crises such as the risk of the butter cream curdling to keep this baker on edge without adding to holiday stress. Having a slight aversion to strong coffee desserts I opted for a mocha butter cream. The addition of cocoa and chocolate to the espresso created a beautifully rich dark log. I opted for the meringue mushrooms but otherwise stayed true to the original recipe as below. I warmly invite you to browse the creations of the other Daring Bakers here.

Thank you again for all your kind comments and for following my culinary adventures over the past year. I hope your holiday season is filled with plenty of warmth and light in the spirit of the Yule Log and that the year ahead is filled with delicious moments.

Yule Log

from Perfect Cakes by Nick Malgieri and The Williams-Sonoma Collection: Dessert

Plain Genoise:

3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
pinch of salt
3⁄4 cup of sugar
1⁄2 cup cake flour - spoon flour into dry-measure cup and level off (also known as cake & pastry flour)
1⁄4 cup cornstarch

one (1) 10 x 15 inch jelly-roll pan that has been buttered and lined with parchment paper and then buttered again

1.Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.
2.Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat so the water is simmering.
3.Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, salt and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Place over the pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture is just lukewarm, about 100 degrees if you have a thermometer (or test with your finger - it should be warm to the touch).
4.Attach the bowl to the mixer and, with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until the egg mixture is cooled (touch the outside of the bowl to tell) and tripled in volume. The egg foam will be thick and will form a slowly dissolving ribbon falling back onto the bowl of whipped eggs when the whisk is lifted.
5.While the eggs are whipping, stir together the flour and cornstarch.
6.Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the beaten eggs. Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour mixture, making sure to scrape all the way to the bottom of the bowl on every pass through the batter to prevent the flour mixture from accumulating there and making lumps. Repeat with another third of the flour mixture and finally with the remainder.
7.Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
8.Bake the genoise for about 10 to 12 minutes. Make sure the cake doesn’t overbake and become too dry or it will not roll properly.
9.While the cake is baking, begin making the buttercream.
10.Once the cake is done (a tester will come out clean and if you press the cake lightly it will spring back), remove it from the oven and let it cool on a rack.

Coffee Buttercream
(I opted for a chocolate version)

4 large egg whites
1 cup sugar
24 tablespoons (3 sticks or 1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons instant espresso powder
2 tablespoons rum or brandy

1.Whisk the egg whites and sugar together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Set the bowl over simmering water and whisk gently until the sugar is dissolved and the egg whites are hot.
2.Attach the bowl to the mixer and whip with the whisk on medium speed until cooled. Switch to the paddle and beat in the softened butter and continue beating until the buttercream is smooth. Dissolve the instant coffee in the liquor and beat into the buttercream.

Meringue Mushrooms:

3 large egg whites, at room temperature
1⁄4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1⁄2 cup (3-1/2 ounces/105 g.) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (1-1/3 ounces/40 g.) icing sugar
Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting

1.Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Have ready a pastry bag fitted with a small (no. 6) plain tip. In a bowl, using a mixer on medium-low speed, beat together the egg whites and cream of tartar until very foamy. Slowly add the granulated sugar while beating. Increase the speed to high and beat until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted. Continue until the whites hold stiff, shiny peaks. Sift the icing sugar over the whites and, using a rubber spatula, fold in until well blended.
2.Scoop the mixture into the bag. On one baking sheet, pipe 48 stems, each 1⁄2 inch (12 mm.) wide at the base and tapering off to a point at the top, 3⁄4 inch (2 cm.) tall, and spaced about 1⁄2 inch (12 mm.) apart. On the other sheet, pipe 48 mounds for the tops, each about 1-1/4 inches (3 cm.) wide and 3⁄4 inch (2 cm.) high, also spaced 1⁄2 inch (12 mm.) apart. With a damp fingertip, gently smooth any pointy tips. Dust with cocoa. Reserve the remaining meringue.
3.Bake until dry and firm enough to lift off the paper, 50-55 minutes. Set the pans on the counter and turn the mounds flat side up. With the tip of a knife, carefully make a small hole in the flat side of each mound. Pipe small dabs of the remaining meringue into the holes and insert the stems tip first. Return to the oven until completely dry, about 15 minutes longer. Let cool completely on the sheets.

Assembling the Yule Log:

1.Run a sharp knife around the edges of the genoise to loosen it from the pan.
2.Turn the genoise layer over (unmolding it from the sheet pan onto a flat surface) and peel away the paper.
3.Carefully invert your genoise onto a fresh piece of parchment paper
4.Spread with half the coffee buttercream (or whatever filling you’re using).
5.Use the parchment paper to help you roll the cake into a tight cylinder.
6.Transfer back to the baking sheet and refrigerate for several hours.
7.Unwrap the cake. Trim the ends on the diagonal, starting the cuts about 2 inches away from each end.
8.Position the larger cut piece on each log about 2/3 across the top.
9.Cover the log with the reserved buttercream, making sure to curve around the protruding stump.
10.Streak the buttercream with a fork or decorating comb to resemble bark.
11.Transfer the log to a platter and decorate with your mushrooms and whatever other decorations you’ve chosen.

Daring Bakers #3

2007-11-27T06:39:00.002-08:00

I can't begin to tell you the joy this recipe gave me. I have never worked with a dough that was such a pleasure to handle. It is undeniably sticky but also wondrously silky. I am a self confessed amateur baker but even in my novice view this recipe is a keeper. It results in a delightfully tender crumb and crusty exterior. The rolls are ideal for dipping in a little olive oil and rock salt. The warm slices are heavenly eaten unadorned and all too moreish for my waistline. Thank you to Tanna for this sensational recipe and I encourage you to browse the creations of the other Daring Bakers.

Tender Potato Bread

The below instructions are for what I made, a large loaf and several flat breads. You could also make a twisted loaf, dinner rolls or countless other variations.

Ingredients:

4 medium potatoes peeled and cut into chunks
4 cupswater
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
6 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (130g) whole wheat flour

Cook the potatoes in the water with 1 tsp salt until very tender. Reserve 3 cups of cooking water. In a large bowl mash the potatoes well and then add the 3 cups reserved water.Let cool to lukewarm (70-80°F/21 - 29°C). Add yeast to 2 cups all-purpose flour and whisk. Add yeast and flour to the cooled mashed potatoes & water and mix well. Allow to rest 5 minutes.

Sprinkle in the remaining 1 tablespoon salt and the softened butter; mix well. Add the 1 cup whole wheat flour, stir briefly. Add 2 cups of the unbleached all-purpose flour and stir until all the flour has been incorporated.

Turn the dough out onto a generously floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, incorporating flour as needed to prevent sticking. The dough will be very sticky to begin with, but as it takes up more flour from the kneading surface, it will become easier to handle; use a dough scraper to keep your surface clean. The kneaded dough will still be very soft. Place the dough in a large clean bowl and let rise about 2 hours or until doubled in volume.

Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead gently several minutes. It will be moist and a little sticky. Divide the dough into shapes of your choice. I used 2/3 for a loaf and the remainder for small flatbreads. Place the bread into tins or baking trays. Brush with a little olive oil and sprinkle with herbs if you wish. Bake for 10 minutes at 450°(230°C) and then turn the oven down to 375°F (190 °C) for the remaining time. Bake the loaf for a further 40 minutes and the rolls for another 20 minutes. Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing the loaf although the rolls can be eaten while warm and are in my opinion best this way.

Weekend Herb Blogging #110

2007-11-27T06:39:00.001-08:00

As I dash between hemispheres it is such a delight to host Weekend Herb Blogging and discover the best seasonal produce in both parts of the world. My apologies for the lateness of this roundup due to a 30 hour flight and lack of internet access but enough with the excuses and onto the food. This weekend bloggers from across the globe have shared everything from cooling ice cream to warming Thanksgiving fare. For more information about this incredible blogging event created by Kalyn please visit Kalyn's Kitchen.

Lucy from Nourish Me has the perfect solution for those of us battling the Australian summer. Her lemon yoghurt ice is a feast for the eyes and senses. Head over to experience her beautiful words and photos as she works wonders with citrus.

Our creator Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen has the perfect accompaniment to any Thanksgiving meal. Her Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Balsamic, Parmesan and Pinenuts are deceptively healthy and sound absolutely sensational.

Mike of Mike's Table reminds us of the joy of simple things with his Herb Butter Roast Chicken. There are few greater pleasures in life than a perfectly roasted chicken and Mike's sounds simply wonderful.

Anh from Food Lover's Journey reminds us that mother's do know best with her Freshwater Fish, Choy Sum & Ginger Soup (Canh ca nau cai). This Vietnamese summer meal is both delicious and healthy. What more could you want during the warmer months?

Laurie from Tastes Like Home turns the humble onion into something special with her Pan-Friend Scallops and Caramelized Onions and Spinach. She certainly knows how to get the best out of her produce and I can easily see how this could become a regular meal.

Jennifer from Like to Cook offers a curried cauliflower soup. Another fabulous warming meal.

Annemarie at Ambrosia and Nectar offers a quick sabzi, the perfect way to spice up vegetables for those of us attempting to be a little more health conscious or just those who love tasty dishes. This Indian dish with Persian influences is certainty an exotic twist on the standard vegetable offerings.

Kalva from Curry in Kadai has another spicy offering, a grated squash curry. The vibrant colour alone is enough to jazz up any meal.

Gay from A Scientist in the Kitchen brings us a mango, cucumber and lettuce salad. A new way to utilise this fabulous summer fruit.

Rosa from Rosa Jackson has created a Kamut Flour Pizza. This gourmet delight sounds absolutely sensational.

Patricia from Technicolor Kitchen brings us a refreshing and flavour packed Lemon Pasta. It sounds heavenly on a summer evening.

Kevin from Closet Cooking brings us Cauliflower and Cheddar Soup with Dill. It looks wonderfully hearty and the perfect winter warmer on chilly evenings.

Jeanne from CookSister! has used some of my favourite flavours to make a wonderfully exotic winter warmer. Her Harira (Moroccan soup) is something I can't wait to try out.

Helene has also created something I'd love to add to my soup repertoire with her Multi Veggie Soup. I love the addition of susage for a hearty winter meal.

Anna from Anna's Cool Finds engages in some Mushroom Madness. She has chosen to grow her own so head over for a fascinating insight into the process of cultivating shitake mushrooms.

Genie from the Inadvertent Gardener has created the perfect Thanksgiving dish; Pear Salad with honey-cranberry drizzle. It sounds flavour packed and delicious.

Peter from Kalfogas has brought us a beautiful zucchini linguine. It sounds as lovely as it looks!

Emily from Superspark has made a mouthwatering cornbread and brocolli rabe strata. The photo alone has me desperate for a taste.

Anna from Morsels and Musings has brought us pickled nectarines with ricotta and proscuitto. These bite sized delights are a fantastic addition to any menu.

Gretchen from Canela and Comino has made a pumpkin pie porridge that sounds almost too delicious to be healthy.

Pam from Sidewalk Shoes has made me wish we celebrated Thanksgivng with her Turkey with herbs de provence and citrus. Now that is one beautiful bird!

Jerry has brought us one of my favourite winter meals, braised lamb shanks with white beans. I can't think of anything more comforting!

Katie from Thyme for Cooking brings us a salad of chevre, dates and nuts. The ingredients alone are enough to make me know this is a recipe I have to try!

Pam from the Backyard Pizzeria has created the most colourful dish of stuffed baby capsicums. Cute and delicious!

Haalo from Cook Almost Anything has used the most sensational Italian produce in her Bresaola con Rucola. Enough to make me want to go to Italy right now!

Gwen from Intoxicated Zodiac has submitted our first liquid entry- Chestnut Chocolate Alexanders. I think they have my name on them!

From Almost Turkish we have Bulgar Risotto with Beet and Beer. So hearty but exciting exotic!

Syrie from Tastebuddies has made roast chicken prepared with a lemon herbed butter consisting of fresh thyme, rosemary, lemon zest and parsley. Sounds like the perfect Sunday Roast to me!

Sher from What Did you Eat has made the perfect party pleaser with her Herb Pita Crisps, with a Sun-Dried Tomato Dip. Can't wait to try this at my next gathering.

Elizabeth from Blog from our Kitchen has made Penne with Oven Roasted Sweet Potato, Pecans and Goat's Cheese. Comfort in a pasta bowl!

Susan from the Well-Seasoned Cook brings us a pudding that is bound to spice things up with her licorice pudding. This sensational dessert is definitely one to check out!

Rinku from Cooking with Rinku has the perfect way to use left-over turkey in her Turkey with Makhani Sauce. It sounds too delicious to be made of leftovers!

Strata from My Bay Area Kitchen has a flavour and colour packed contribution with her Fall Snack Plate. Check out the gorgeous produce!

Finally my own entry of Summer Trifle of Stone Fruit and Raspberries. A light dessert of luscious fruit and rosewater scented yoghurt and a final tribute to summer before I head to the northern hemisphere.

If I've missed anyone please leave a message. Most importantly, next weekend Weekend Herb Blogging will be back at the home of its creator, Kalyn so please send your entries to kalynskitchen (at) comcast (dot) net.

Summer Trifle

2007-11-22T20:54:00.000-08:00

As this week’s host of Weekend Herb Blogging, it seemed about time I got around to my own entry. I’ve chosen to indulge in the abundance of beautifully ripe stone fruit and glut of raspberries that are one of the greatest joys of summer. Such glorious produce requires little preparation, which is fortunate as there is nothing worse than a steamy summer kitchen. It does, however, benefit from the addition of some luscious summer flavours. I’ve chosen to feature the fruit in a light summer trifle that is a perfect finish to any meal. It begins with the traditional cake base and while I’ve chosen to use leftover sponge, really any cake will do. The traditional custard has been replaced with layers of rosewater scented greek yogurt. I can think of no scent more suited to summer evenings. The raspberries are macerated in sugar and balsamic to give them a sensational intensity of flavour while the stone fruit needs nothing more than its own aromatic juices. The sweet and tart juices the raspberries have been steeping in make the perfect soaking alternative to sherry for the sponge. This layered creation is light enough to be a regular treat yet with such an intensity of colours and flavours it makes the perfect dinner party indulgence.

Summer Trifle of Stone Fruit and Raspberries

Serves 2

1 cup raspberries
1 cup peeled and diced stone fruit (peaches, nectarines and apricots all work well)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp sugar
1 cup greek yoghurt
1 tsp rosewater
leftover sponge, chiffon or butter cake (or really any plain cake) cut into wedges

Set aside a few raspberries to garnish. In a small bowl combine the rest of the raspberries, balsamic and 1 tbsp sugar and set aside to seep. In another bowl combine the greek yoghurt with the remaining sugar and rose water. I will often double this component as the rose water yoghurt is a perfect aromatic accompaniment to many desserts or simply on its own.

In an individual or a larger serving dish begin by layering cake wedges to form a thin layer. Top with a little of the raspberry syrup and half the raspberries. Spoon over a layer of rosewater yoghurt, using about half a cup. Top with a stone fruit layer before another layer of cake. Repeat with remaining raspberries and yoghurt. Garnish with reserved raspberries and serve.

Just a reminder to email your Weekend Herb Blogging entries to me by Sunday and check back for the roundup on Monday.

Salad Days

2007-11-06T02:04:00.000-08:00

With summer creeping up on us comes the time for lighter fare. As I will be experiencing a European winter instead of long summer days in less than two weeks, I am particularly keen to savour the simple things I know I will be missing all too soon.

Salad days involve excellent produce prepared without fuss and with minimal time actually spent in the kitchen. I'm always ready for a spring evening lingering over moist roast chicken and a bottle of wine because I know it requires mere minutes of preparation and I can read outside in the sunshine while it achieves a glorious burnished perfection. The recipe below is ideally suited to the leftovers of the said bird but I’ve been known to roast just for this purpose. While there is certainly no shortage of roast chicken recipes, this is my spring version; chicken deeply infused with rosemary and lemon and creamy slices of avocado balanced with sweet roast capsicum over a bed of perfectly dressed salad greens. There is something magical about the simplicity of chicken and avocado particularly when you drench the lot in a dressing of herby pan juices whisked with red wine vinegar. As those of you who follow this blog will know all too well, I don’t exercise a lot of restraint in gastronomic matters but this is one salad that will never leave you feeling deprived.

The warmer climate has also brought something else; a second wind of culinary inspiration. While I am unlikely to start seeking out fussy and pretentious food or enjoying laborious preparations, I am desperately keen to discover new produce, markets and local specialities both here and on my travels. Mostly importantly, perhaps, I am keen to start sharing it and writing more regularly.

Lemon and Herb Roast Chicken with Avocado Salad

Serves 4

1 avocado
1 red capsicum
4 cups mixed salad leaves
1 whole chicken, the best you can find
lemon
rosemary
olive oil
1 tbs red wine vinegar

Wash your bird thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels. Squeeze half a lemon over the chicken and once juiced place it in the cavity to infuse the chicken with its aroma during the baking. Season liberally with salt and a generous drizzle of olive oil. In a suitably large roasting pan place your chicken on a bed of rosemary. In the same tin pop in your capsicum for roasting. Add another glug of olive oil for good measure and place uncovered in an oven, preheated to 200C. After 40 minutes baste your chicken and cover with foil if browning too quickly. Remove your capsicum at this stage. It should be done within another 25-35 minutes depending on the size of the bird. Prick the thigh and if the juices run clear, you’re ready to proceed.

Remove the chicken from the pan and cover with foil while you prepare the salad. Skim any fat off from the pan juices and remove the rosemary. Place your tin on the stovetop and whisk in the red wine vinegar. You may require less depending on the quantity of pan juices. Season to taste.

Slip the skin off your roast capsicum to reveal the sweet flesh. Deseed and chop roughly. Halve and deseed your avocado. Slice generously. When your chicken has cooled sufficiently, shred the meat and fight off any fingers attempting to devour the crispy lemony skin.

On a large serving platter place a bed of mixed salad leaves. Top with the shredded chicken, avocado and capsicum. Drizzle with the pan juice dressing and finish with a good grinding of pepper and a handful of baby basil leaves. Serve with crusty bread and wine.

Daring Bakers II

2007-10-28T06:02:00.000-07:00

For my second Daring Bakers task I found myself facing a multi-layered challenge. This month Mary from Alpineberry had us creating Bostini Cream Pies. A velvety custard topped with a slice of chiffon cake and finished with a drizzle of chocolate. Pure comfort food.

For my version I opted for two variations. A lemon chiffon instead of the traditional orange featured below and I opted to garnish with an extra smaller star shaped slice of chiffon because there's something lovely about that golden star in a pool of chocolately darkness. I was fortunate enough to have custard that set with a little chilling and so plated with a larger star shaped custard base below my first chiffon slice.

As for the taste, imagine the lightest lemon cake on a silky bed of custard smothered in chocolate and you have the Bostini Cream Pie. With a chilled set custard it's decadent but refreshing, especially when paired with the light and lemony cake. I've also tried it with warm custard and an extra smothering of chocolate glaze for a rich and comforting treat. The recipe with a traditional orange chiffon can be found below and feel free to see what the other Daring Bakers created here.

Bostini Cream Pie
(from Donna Scala & Kurtis Baguley of Bistro Don Giovanni and Scala's Bistro)
Makes 8 generous servings

Custard
3/4 cup whole milk
2 3/4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 whole egg, beaten
9 egg yolks, beaten
3 3/4 cups heavy whipping cream
1/2 vanilla bean
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon sugar

Chiffon Cake
1 1/2 cups cake flour
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1 1/3 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup canola oil
1/3 cup beaten egg yolks (3 to 4 yolks)
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
1 1/2 tablespoons grated orange zest
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup egg whites (about 8 large)
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Chocolate Glaze
8 ounces semi or bittersweet chocolate
8 ounces unsalted butter

To prepare the custard:Combine the milk and cornstarch in a bowl; blend until smooth. Whisk in the whole egg and yolks, beating until smooth. Combine the cream, vanilla bean and sugar in a saucepan and carefully bring to a boil. When the mixture just boils, whisk a ladleful into the egg mixture to temper it, then whisk this back into the cream mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain the custard and pour into 8 large custard cups. Refrigerate to chill.

To prepare the chiffon cakes: Preheat the oven to 325°F/180C. Spray 8 molds with nonstick cooking spray. You may use 7-ounce custard cups, ovenproof wide mugs or even large foil cups. Whatever you use should be the same size as the custard cups. Sift the cake flour, sugar, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Add the oil, egg yolks, orange juice, zest and vanilla. Stir until smooth, but do not overbeat. Beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Gently fold the beaten whites into the orange batter. Fill the sprayed molds nearly to the top with the batter.
Bake approximately 25 minutes, until the cakes bounce back when lightly pressed with your fingertip. Do not overbake. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack. When completely cool, remove the cakes from the molds. Cover the cakes to keep them moist.

To prepare the glaze:Chop the chocolate into small pieces. Place the butter in a saucepan and heat until it is just about to bubble. Remove from the heat; add the chocolate and stir to melt. Pour through a strainer and keep warm.

To assemble: Cut a thin slice from the top of each cake to create a flat surface. Place a cake flat-side down on top of each custard. Cover the tops with warm chocolate glaze. Serve immediately.

A hit of heat

2007-10-23T05:08:00.000-07:00

It's enough to make a climate change sceptic or even a seasoned Melburnian wonder. One day the thermometer hits 35C, the next it plummets to 15C. It’s all pink blossoms and shorts one day only to be followed by stockings and extra blankets the next. The only way a wardrobe challenged girl can comfort herself is with a bit of heat inducing food. Hopefully the warm sunshine filled days and blossoms will return soon.

In some meat-eating households chicken is the staple protein, for others it’s red meat but in this house there is a strong seafood bias. You may have noticed my penchant for mussels but having recently discovered a source for the freshest, plumpest juiciest little ones, I really can’t help myself. With that promised hit of heat, these differ from my usual preparations.

This Thai inspired recipe offers the traditional balance of hot, sour, salty and sweet. The mussels soak up a spicy warming broth finished with the freshness of coriander. A rich garlicky base and a blast of spice are balanced with a zesty lemon hit. This is anything but a subtle bowlful. When the cold weather unexpectedly sets in, sometimes that’s just what you need.

Thai Red Curry Mussels

1 tbsp peanut or canola oil
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 small red chilli diced (deseeded if you prefer less heat)
1 stalk lemongrass (crush the base to release the aromas)
2-4 kaffir lime leaves
1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste
1.5 cups vegetable stock or water (don’t use stock cubes as combined with the mussels you’ll have an overly salty broth.)
1 tsp fish sauce (nam pla)
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
1 tsp lime zest
1/2 tsp palm sugar
500g/1lb mussels, debearded and scrubbed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander/cilantro

In a large pot sauté the garlic over a medium heat. As it begins to soften, add the chilli. Next add in the lemon grass, curry paste, palm sugar and fish sauce and allow the curry paste to cook off, releasing the spicy aromas. Pour in the stock and lemon zest before adding the mussels. Pop the lid on the pot and allow to steam until opened.

Take off the heat and remove the lemon grass stalk and kaffir lime leaves. Stir through the lime juice. Adjust seasoning to taste and ladle generous serves into bowls immediately so you can serve the mussels in all their plump and juicy glory. Serve with steamed rice, a Thai green papaya salad and lemon scented finger bowls.

A little secret

2007-10-11T22:08:00.000-07:00

Like many food lovers I have followed the rise of ethnically inspired ingredients such as Iranian fairy floss and pomegranate molasses. There is one seemingly undiscovered ingredient for which I have a particular fondness and it originates from the humble date; jaggery. With its treacle like consistency and toffee coloured appearance it is heavenly as an alternative to maple syrup drizzled over pancakes. It also makes the perfect adult’s sundae when poured generously over scoops of vanilla bean ice cream. Deliciously sticky jaggery has a complexity of flavour to which its syrupy cousins can only aspire. It lacks the cloying sweetness of other sugars and is instead seemingly infused with an aroma of dates. This delightful syrup will always have your reaching for seconds.

Although jaggery can be derived from both sugarcane and the sap of the date palm tree, it is the latter that is a delicacy across India, particularly during the winter months when it is widely used. Also known as gur, it comes in the form of a semi-spherical block that must be melted down to a caramel consistency. Once in this form it is traditionally used in rice puddings and milk based confections. In Australia and other countries it's imported and available at many Indian and Sri Lankan grocers.

While most commonly found in recipes derived from the subcontinent, this syrup is also ideal to add a depth of flavour anywhere you would use maple or golden syrup or caramel. I’ve chosen to pair it with some particularly plump dates to echo the flavours in the jaggery. The dates are baked in individual moist almond cakes that are later drenched with the jaggery and smothered with crushed pistachios. The cake has a deliciously crunchy crust and the lightest golden crumb within, perfect for soaking up syrup. With a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a rose water infused cream, it’s luxurious enough for a dinner party but easy enough for a sinful solitary indulgence.

For those feeling inspired to discover new herbs and vegetables head over to Kalyn's Kitchen for the Two Year Celebration of Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by the creator, Kalyn.

Pistachio and Almond Cakes with Date Syrup

The recipe below makes enough for two individual ramekins but is easily doubled.

1/3 cup softened butter
1/3 cup sugar
1 tsp orange zest
1 egg
2/3 cup almond meal/ground almonds
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup chopped dates
pinch of baking powder
pinch of salt

1/4 cup chopped unsalted shelled pistachios
1/2 cup liquid jaggery

Note: If you buy your jaggery in the solid form, the melting process is simple. There are many ways to do it but I find the easiest is to place the jaggery in a pot with a few spoons of water over a low heat. It will melt down quickly and it's then up to you what stage of thickness you desire. For this recipe I've stopped at a syrupy consistency.

Preheat your oven to 180C and lightly butter two individual ramekins. In a large mixing bowl cream the butter, orange zest and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually incorporate the egg and combine well. Stir through the almond meal, flour, salt and baking powder. Slowly pour in the milk until your reach a smooth consistency. You may find you don’t require the full amount.

Pour the batter into the greased ramekins and bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes. Invert the cakes onto a rack and allow to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle slice off the tops to form a level base suitable for plating. Place the individual cakes upside down on serving plates. Re-heat your liquid jaggery until you have a hot syrup. Spoon the jaggery over the cakes while still warm and sprinkle with crushed pistachios. Serve with ice cream or rose water scented cream.

Chicken Yakitori with Udon Noodles in Miso Broth

2007-10-07T06:23:00.000-07:00

All too often relegated to the role of appetizer, I am a proponent of yakitori featuring as a main. I’m rather addicted to these skewered caramelised morsels and along with gyoza they inevitably appear when I’m left to do the ordering. I love the deliciously sweet charred exterior and moist flesh within. Salty, sticky and terribly moreish they are a delightful post-work snack with an Asahi. They are also just the thing to turn a steaming bowl of udon, sprinkled with strips of wakame and an obligatory serving of virtuous greens into something a little more special. Like many untraditional pairings it is surprisingly delicious and like all the best mid-week dinners, reasonably balanced and quick to prepare.

This will also be my entry to Presto Pasta Nights hosted by Ruth at Once Upon a Feast.

Chicken Yakitori with Udon Noodles in Miso Broth

Chicken Yakitori
200g/7oz skinless chicken thighs or breasts diced
4-5 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp Mirin
2 tbsp Sake
1 tbsp caster sugar
wooden skewers (soaked in water to prevent burning)

I have substituted the sake with rice wine vinegar in the past to save a trip to the shops. Feel free to fiddle with the ratios to your taste.

Over a medium heat warm the soy, Mirin, Sake and sugar. Bring to the boil stirring all the while to prevent the slowly caramelising sauce sticking to the sides of the pan. Reduce the heat and taste. Add additional soy or sugar if necessary for balance. As the sauce reduces the flavours will concentrate so be careful not to add an excess of soy. Allow to simmer for 5 minutes until thickened.

Thread bite sized cubes of chicken breast or thigh onto pre-soaked skewers.

Baste the skewers with the thickened sauce and place on a pre-heated grill plate. Continue to baste and turn the skewers until the chicken is cooked through. The sauce should caramelise and turn the pieces a glossy brown. Be careful not to overcook to ensure you are left with deliciously moist flesh within.

Udon Noodles in Miso Broth

Small bunch gai lan or green of choice
200g/7oz udon noodles
2 tbsp miso paste
3 cups water
1 sheet wakame shredded into strips

While the yakitori is cooking, steam the gail land for a few minutes.

In a medium sized pot add the miso paste and water. Allow to heat through and the paste to dissolve. Add the noodles and allow to cook through on a gentle heat. Just before serving, sprinkle over the wakame.

To serve ladle the noodles and miso broth into bowls. Top with gai lan and serve with yakitori.

A homecoming

2007-10-04T06:38:00.000-07:00

When Sydney has been your home for the bulk of your years and you visit as often as I do, it is quite impossible to pop into Tetsuya’s, Guillame or even Bill’s on every trip. Even if my finances would permit such indulgences, my approach to travel rarely involves being organised enough to make reservations. This time I was on a mission of sorts. To prove that the city that is all too often criticised as having more expensive and less satisfying dining experiences than Melbourne can offer delightful fare to those on a budget who never think to book ahead. Melbourne certainly stands up to the test for the fiscally and organisationally challenged with inexpensive and memorable spots such as Camy’s and Tiba’s, so it was time to see if Sydney was up to the challenge.

The Buddha Belly

Although it’s located in the suburbs, this little treasure is worth the drive. Discretely hidden away between a nurseries and vegetable sellers, it’s a real treasure. The restaurant consists of a series of open Balinese structures that allow the flow of cooling breeze on a warm Sydney day. An impeccably manicured Japanese style garden surrounds. The eye is immediately drawn to a pond filled with the fattest golden koi and crowned with a waterfall spilling over moss-covered rocks. A traipse through the gardens and over the Japanese bridge is a must between courses.

The food proves fusion cooking is far from dated when it’s as well executed as it is here. There are also a few standard café options. Our table samples the fried calamari with green papaya salad, fried tofu salad with green tea soba noodles and the pumpkin and leek soup with goats cheese dumplings (all approx $16).

Washed down with the Buddha Belly juice consisting of mango, lychee, coconut, jackfruit and pineapple, it’s the perfect spring meal.

The Buddha Belly
327 Mona Vale Road, Terry Hills
PH: 02 9450 1504
www.thebuddhabelly.com.au

For those in search of a faster, cheaper Asian meal you can’t beat Chinatown or for something a little different, Newtown with its array of Thai and Japanese restaurants in the sub-$10 bracket. No wonder the students love it so much.

Different Drummer Cocktail and Tapas Bar

For those in search of an affordable dinner venue it’s hard to go past Glebe Point Road. It’s a sensational melting pot of candlelit Italian, exotic Morrocan, spicy Indian, trendy vegetarian and cheap and cheerful take away spots. In search of a drink and a nibble we settle into the more discrete of the two tapas establishments, Distant Drummer. It’s packed with locals by 7pm which isn’t surprising given they offer a free cocktail with every one that you order from 6-7:30pm.

Perched on a bar stool at a window counter it’s the perfect spot for people watching and to linger over a cocktail on a balmy evening. The tapas (all $10) are actually a mix of Spanish style dishes and bar snacks with a few ethnic twists. We opt for the chargrilled lamb brochettes in Moroccan marinade and chorizo with cherry tomatoes & basil. The skewers of juicy lamb are paired with a simple green salad. The richness of the chorizo works beautifully with the sweet tomatoes and clean flavours of the basil. We order bread to mop up the juices.

Different Drummer
185 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Ph: 02 9992 9406
www.differentdrummer.com.au

It’s hard to pass up the churros with chocolate sauce for dessert but for those in search of a real chocolate fix, visit Chocolateria San Churro, a little further up Glebe Point Road or the Lindt Chocolate Cafe in Martin Place or Cockle Bay where we indulged in the below on another evening.

Badde Manors

Perhaps unsurprisingly I find myself back in Glebe a few days later for a visit to the market. I’m led to a café that easily rivals Melbourne stalwarts such as Ray. Featuring indulgent vegetarian fare ($7-14), the sensational plates passing by suggested meat eaters would feel far from deprived. There’s also a tempting cake selection. With eight pastry chefs in addition to the café’s own there are unsurprisingly some fantastic creations on offer. On this occasion I just indulge in a couple of scoops of refreshing sorbet but I’m determined to return to sample more.

Badde Manors
37 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
http://www.baddemanorscafe.com/

Lyne Park Café
On my final morning for a farewell brunch I’m eager to do something traditionally Sydney and what could be more Sydney than a waterside meal? In a city where $40+ mains are the norm, my self-imposed fiscal constraints lead me to Lyne Park Café, Rose Bay. The service alone is enough to make me return. It’s warm and attentive with a sincerity that’s all too rare.

Alongside the traditional egg options the menu boasts superbly fluffy ricotta pancakes and fruit. They don’t even raise an eyebrow when my dear dining companion requests a side of bacon. I opt for the corn fritters with bacon, avocado and relish. The fritters are perfectly cooked and all the components work together beautifully. It’s sweet, salty and zesty. Although there isn’t a spare table the staff happily let us linger over our coffees.

As if I needed any more convincing that you can find exceptional dining experiences on a budget in this city, this was the view across the park.

Lyne Park Café
600 New South Head Road, Rose Bay
Ph: 02 9388 3834

Daring Bakers

2007-09-30T02:26:00.000-07:00

September turned out to be a month of challenges. The greatest came about as a result of me putting my hand up to cater for 80 people at an event last weekend. Less daunting was my adventure into the world of sweet doughs. For my first Daring Bakers task I took up the challenge of Marce from Pip in the City to make Cinnamon Rolls or Sticky Buns. The recipe came from The Bread Baker Apprentice by Peter Reinhart. Thankfully for this apprentice baker, who was short on time, the recipe is relatively simple. Although the dough itself requires several hours to rise the actual hands on time was very reasonable.

The dough was simply delightful to work with, resembling the softest white pillow after kneading. It was incredibly enjoyable making this by hand and one of the occasions on which I was thankful I don't use a mixer. I opted for the cinnamon buns and the end result was a spicy scroll topped with a fragrant lemony fondant drizzle. The texture was a little too bread-like for my taste but I'm sure that could be altered with a little recipe tweaking. You can view the results of the other Daring Bakers here.

Cinnamon Buns

from Peter Reinhart's The Bread Baker's Apprentice

6 1/2 tablespoons (3.25 ounces) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
5 1/2 tablespoons (2.75 ounces) shortening or unsalted butter or margarine
1 large egg, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon lemon extract OR 1 teaspoon grated zest of 1 lemon
3 1/2 cups (16 ounces) unbleached bread or all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 1/8 to 1 1/4 cups whole milk or buttermilk, at room temperature
1/2 cup cinnamon sugar (6 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar plus 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, or any other spices you want to use, cardamom, ginger, allspice, etc.)

Step 1 - Making the Dough: Cream together the sugar, salt, and shortening or butter on medium-high speed in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment (or use a large metal spoon and mixing bowl and do it by hand).

Whip in the egg and lemon extract/zest until smooth. Then add the flour, yeast, and milk. Mix on low speed (or stir by hand) until the dough forms a ball. Switch to the dough hook and increase the speed to medium, mixing for approximately 10 minutes (or knead by hand for 12 to 15 minutes), or until the dough is silky and supple, tacky but not sticky. You may have to add a little flour or water while mixing to achieve this texture. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Step 2 - Fermentation: Ferment at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

Step 3 - Form the Buns: Mist the counter with spray oil and transfer the dough to the counter. Proceed as shown in the photo below for shaping the buns.

Roll out the dough with a rolling pin, lightly dusting the top with flour to keep it from sticking to the pin. Roll it into a rectangle about 2/3 inch thick and 14 inches wide by 12 inches long for larger buns, or 18 inches wide by 9 inches long for smaller buns. Don´t roll out the dough too thin, or the finished buns will be tough and chewy rather than soft and plump.

Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the surface of the dough and roll the dough up into a cigar-shaped log, creating a cinnamon-sugar spiral as you roll. With the seam side down, cut the dough into 8 to 12 pieces each about 1 3/4 inches thick for larger buns, or 12 to 16 pieces each 1 1/4 inch thick for smaller buns.

Step 4 - Prepare the Buns for Proofing: Line 1 or more sheet pans with baking parchment. Place the buns approximately 1/2 inch apart so that they are not touching but are close to one another.

Step 5 - Proof the Buns: Proof at room temperature for 75 to 90 minutes, or until the pieces have grown into one another and have nearly doubled in size. You may also retard the shaped buns in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, pulling the pans out of the refrigerator 3 to 4 hours before baking to allow the dough to proof.

Step 6 - Bake the Buns: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with the oven rack in the middle shelf. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Step 7 - Cool the buns: Cool the buns in the pan for about 10 minutes and then streak white fondant glaze across the tops, while the buns are warm but not too hot.

Step 8- White fondant glaze for cinnamon buns: Sift 4 cups of powdered sugar into a bowl. Add 1 teaspoon of lemon or orange extract and 6 tablespoons to 1/2 cup of warm milk, briskly whisking until all the sugar is dissolved. Add the milk slowly and only as much as is needed to make a thick, smooth paste. This makes a lot of glaze so feel free to halve the recipe.

When the buns have cooled but are still warm, streak the glaze over them by dipping the tines of a fork or a whisk into the glaze and waving the fork or whisk over the tops.

A Spring Gathering

2007-09-13T04:46:00.000-07:00

Until around the time I reached school age my parents were keen entertainers. It was a rare occurrence to experience a Saturday night that did not involve a house full of guests and tables overflowing with food my father seemed to effortlessly throw together at the last minute. There were no guest lists or carefully choreographed shopping trips or planned menus yet somehow it always seemed to come together. There was never a recipe book or measuring cup in sight yet my father managed to miraculously produce dish upon dish. Regardless of how well received they were, no dish ever made a second appearance. When working from taste and what you have on hand, repeat performances can be difficult.

Unfortunately I fear I have not inherited his talent for catering to the masses without the least bit of planning. More often than not I resort to the tried and tested with small variations and so for the housewarming of a particularly delightful couple, I found myself producing these. The classic recipe pairs sweet caramelised pumpkin with a salty dose of feta and sometimes a little spinach for balance before the filling is delicately rolled in the crispest layers of filo. This time I have forsaken spinach for a sprinkling of chives, included haloumi for its beautiful texture and snuck in a smoky hit of paprika. I’ve incorporated the mellowest hint of garlic by leaving the cloves in their skins during the roasting. The result is a fat, crisp pastry roll encasing a burst of sweet and savoury. Given these are designed to be eaten with a wine glass in the other hand, unsurprisingly they’ve become a party favourite of mine. These are also my contribution Weekend Herb Blogging founded by Kalyn and this week hosted by Katerina from Daily Unadventures in Cooking.

Pumpkin, chive and feta pastry cigars

1/2 butternut pumpkin (cubed and skin removed)
4 cloves garlic (unpeeled)
few sprigs rosemary
200g/7oz feta
100g/3.5oz haloumi (cubed)
1 tsb finely chopped chives
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 package filo pastry
melted butter

Pre-heat oven to 180C and line 2 large trays with baking paper. In a roasting tin toss the cubed pumpkin in a hefty dose of olive oil. Sprinkle over the rosemary and unpeeled garlic cloves. When I am feeling a little lazy I bake the whole pumpkin and easily peel the skin away after cooking and prior to mashing.

Bake in the oven for 40 minutes or until the pumpkin is soft and caramelised. Remove the rosemary. Slip the garlic cloves out of their skins. Discard skins and add soft garlic cloves to the pumpkin. Allow the mixture to cool before roughly mashing the roasted pumpkin with the sweet garlic.

Crumble in the feta and add the chives and haloumi. Sprinkle over the paprika and season well to taste.

Lay your first sheet of filo pastry on the counter. Brush liberally with melted butter and repeat twice more until you have three buttery filo sheets. Cover your unused filo sheets with a damp tea towel to prevent them drying out before they are needed.

Cut your sheet into rectangles, slightly longer than a playing card. Place your first rectangle lengthways in frong of you. Place a spoonful of filling at the narrow base closest to you. Be careful not to overfill and slowly roll it away from you so the pastry encases the filling in a cigar shape. Tuck the top edges in as your roll to completely encase your filling in a cigar tube shape. Use a little extra melted butter to seal the edge. Repeat with remaining filling.

Place cigars on greased baking paper lined trays. Brush cigars liberally with melted butter for a crisp finish. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until brown and crisp. Serve immediately.

Note: These can be prepared ahead. Simply cover with a damp tea towel before the final brushing. When ready to serve brush with butter and bake.

Finally

2007-09-07T22:12:00.000-07:00

After a few false starts it seems Spring is finally here. Perhaps I was a little too hopeful back in August when I thought Spring had come early. Each hint of sunshine was followed by a heavy dose of grey, wind and rain. I think I can safely assume now that it’s only going to get better from here. In a few months you’ll hear me complaining about the excessive heat and escaping to the coast but for now I am delighted that Spring has sprung. I’m delighted by the flowering cherry blossoms that have turned my street into a carpet of the palest pink and cream, afternoons reading in the sunshine and salads bursting with the freshest of flavours.

During the warmer months hundreds of platefuls of salad will grace my table so I refuse to tolerate any of those iceberg and sliced tomato creations that featured all to frequently in the BBQs of my childhood. Instead I seek layered flavours and textures and believe even warm salads should offer a burst of freshness. This time I’ve chosen to use zesty citrus to lighten the richness of smoked chicken. It’s finished with sliced radish and a sprinkle of toasted almonds because a salad should never be short on crunch. I’ve chosen to caramelise the mandarins to bring out all their juicy glory while leaving the striking ruby grapefruit segments untouched. The caramelised juices are drizzled over the finished salad to create a warm oil-free dressing. It’s tangy and sweet with a smoky richness and best of all it will be ready in minutes.

I must admit that until recently I had an unreasonable aversion to grape fruit. I have now learnt to love the sight of these ruby jewels. I think they pair beautifully with meats in savoury uses and are underused compared to the more traditional pairings of pork and apple or duck and cherry. This salad highlights this beautiful fruit and will be my entry to Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Katie of Thyme for Cooking.

Smoked Chicken Salad with Caramelised Mandarins and Grapefruit

Serves 2
1 mandarin or small orange peeled and segmented
1 pink grapefruit (peeled and segmented)
2 cups mixed salad greens
1 smoked chicken breast
2 sliced radishes
1 tsp slivered almonds

Dressing
2 tsp brown sugar
1 tsp salted butter
1-2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar (or a mix of water and vinegar if yours is particularly tart)

To ensure stress free assembly I advise preparing all your ingredients before you commence cooking. Peel and segment the mandarin and grapefruit, finely slice the radish, wash your greens and slice the chicken breast on the diagonal.

Heat a pan over high heat without any oil. Toss in the slivered almonds and allow to toast but not burn. Remove and set aside.

In the same pan over medium heat melt the butter. Before it browns stir through the sugar until dissolved. Add the mandarin segments and allow a golden caramel crust to form then remove the segments from the pan. Pour in the white balsamic vinegar to combine with the remaining caramel juices. Add vinegar to taste until you reach the perfect balance of sweet and tanginess. You don’t want it to be excessively sour but you’ll need hint of acid to avoid an overly sweet dressing.

To assemble begin by placing your greens on a serving plate. Top with the sliced smoked chicken. Layer over the mandarin and grapefruit segments. Finish the sliced radishes. Drizzle over the dressing and sprinkle with slivered almonds.

A review and a recipe

2007-09-03T04:36:00.000-07:00

Following a week of celebrations I decide to take advantage of a warm Sunday afternoon to book us in for a lunch along the Yarra soaking up the precious Melbourne afternoon sunshine. The restaurant of choice is The Brasserie by Philippe Mouchel. The food is classic French, elevated by Mouchel’s outstanding skill and knowledge, without straying too far from tradition. His experience of having trained in French Michelin star restaurants is evident and he executes classic dishes perfectly. While I appreciate the intricacies of molecular gastronomy, for a long weekend lunch on the river, foams and dusts have no place. Instead I seek out excellent produce, beautiful presentation and exceptional flavours and fortunately Philippe Mouchel successfully ticks all of those boxes.

Mouchel’s new neighbours include Nobu and Neil Perry with Guillaume Brahim destined to follow soon. Despite significant investments to create this new Melbourne dining precinct, I find it difficult to forget we are merely metres away from the horrendously fluorescent monstrosity that is Crown Casino. Thankfully unlike his new trendy neighbours, Mouchel has opted for a clean, minimal interior that gives the impression of a restaurant that will stand the test of time. With its tree-lined terrace overlooking the river, this is the perfect sanctuary in which to linger over lunch. I can see myself becoming a regular.

I begin with Tasmanian salmon gravlax, spelt blinis, crème fraîche and condiments. Beautifully presented this is a lovely combination of simple clean flavours.

Gravlax de saumon de mer de Tasmanie, blinis d'épeautre et crème fraîche, condiments 18.50

We also sample the Snails Provençale tomato fondue, garlic and parsley butter with puff pastry 17.50, a modified recipe for which can be found below. The most outstanding starter is the country style corn-fed chicken liver terrine, onion jam and toasted sourdough. The terrine has the most superb texture and is rich with complex flavours. It pairs perfectly with the onion jam and makes me keen to attempt this at home.

Terrine de campagne, confiture d'oignon, pain au levain 18.00

There is an almost overwhelming array of mains from which to select but the medley of duck – roasted breast, poached leg and handmade sausage with ragout of Victorian green lentils stands out. The leg has the texture of confit and the meat falls away from the bone. The sausage works beautifully with the lentils and while the breast is one of the leanest I've eaten, it rounds the medley out perfectly.

Petit salé de canard aux lentilles vertes 38.50

I also sneak a taste of the pan roasted beef tenderloin with fresh green peppercorns. With its perfectly seared crust and meltingly tender interior it is an excellent piece of meat served with a delicate pommes dauphinoise.

Filet de boeuf au poiure vert et salsifis 35.50

We are given complimentary sides of pommes frites, mesclun salad with a classic vinaigrette and a remarkable potato and leek gratin that I hope to soon replicate.

Fortunately the staff at the brasserie pace our courses perfectly and we find room for the spectacular dessert tasting plate featuring;
Saint Honoré – choux pastry, hazelnut chiboust and chestnut cream
Traditional baba soaked in Cointreau liqueur, citrus salad, orange marmalade
Chocolate marquise
Apple crumble tart
Vanilla crème brûlée
Mango and vanilla ice creams

La brasserie assiette de dégustation 14.00 p.p

The service is warm and attentive. To our delight as it is Father's Day every male diner is presented with a pair of cuff links. What makes this long lunch particularly enjoyable is that despite the prices listed above, Philippe Mouchel offers 3 courses and a side dish at lunch for the less than princely sum of $43.90. Unlike most set menus you are able to select from all the à la carte dishes with the exception of two. It is remarkable value given I would happily pay the à la carte prices for food and service of this calibre.

The Brasserie by Philippe Mouchel
Riverside at Crown, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank
Ph: 9292 7808
Lunch midday-3pm seven days; dinner Sun-Thurs 6pm-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 6pm-11pm
http://www.thebrasserieatcrown.com.au

As promised now for the recipe... I have adapted the below from one of Philippe Mouchel's own to suit my personal tastes. It takes mere minutes to prepare yet makes a beautiful French bistro style dinner party starter. Escargot are readily available in most delicatessens these days and the puffy pastry hats are a lovely way to present them. Our lunch reminded me I had some that needed cooking. I adore these juicy morsels bathed in buttery herb and garlic juices. The pastry topping is an indulgent alternative to the usual slices of baguette I dip into the garlic butter.

Escargot in garlic and parsley butter with a puff pastry topping

Serves 4

2 dozen escargot
150g/5oz butter
2 cloves chopped garlic
2 finely chopped shallots
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp almond meal (optional)
generous pinch salt
pinch white pepper
pinch grated nutmeg
3 sheets puff pastry
beaten egg

Pre-heat oven to 200C or as directed by puff pastry package. Sauté the garlic and shallots in the butter. Add the escargot and season with salt, nutmeg and pepper. Stir through the almond meal to thicken if necessary. Toss through the parsley. You will finish the dish in the oven so you need not cook the snails through. Just the briefest searing will suffice.

In individual dishes spoon in a portion of escargot (6 per person). Cut lids to top each individual dish from the puff pastry. Use one of your dishes as a guide to trace out an appropriately sized circle. Top the escargot filled dishes with pastry circles. Brush with a beaten egg for a golden finish. Cook in an oven at 200ºC for 15 minutes or until pastry is puffed and golden. Serve immediately with a green salad and crisp white wine.

The Japanese Nonna

2007-08-30T05:15:00.000-07:00

Mum Kaasama makes a lot of claims. The name itself hints at a mother's homestyle cooking. Italian restaurants have been priding themselves on this for years, it's only fair that the Japanese restaurants in Melbourne get in on the market. The menu also makes a play for the other end of the market with several references to organic produce. I imagine that goes down well in Albert Park. The owners also take every available opportunity tout the authenticity of the fare. They wants you to be secure in the knowledge you will not be served bastardised versions of Japanese food and that this is the real deal. Personally the authenticity was cast into doubt somewhat when I discovered that the 7 course menu, while reasonably priced at $45, is devoted to a certain restaurant reviewer. I think I’ll be ordering à la carte tonight.

Although the food may be authentic, this Albert Park terrace house is highly unlikely to be mistaken for an Osaka dining establishment. Nevertheless this small Japanese restaurant is charming with its lush green courtyard and terracotta tiled interior. Although the décor is far from fussy there are some lovely details such as antique kimono silk table runners made by the owner’s mother. On an unseasonably warm night offering a hint of summer, it’s rather delightful to situate yourself on the bamboo tree lined terrace with a drink while you peruse the menu.

The beverage list deserves comment with a diverse range on offer and no shortage of reasonably priced wines by the glass. We opt for sake and plum wine. The food, however, is mixed and it quickly becomes evident that this restaurant’s strength lies in the freshness of its produce. The most enjoyable experiences are found in the simpler dishes such as the sushi and sashimi platters. Particularly remarkable is the blue eye sushi perfectly dressed with lemon, wasabi and sea salt. Simply brilliant. The quality of the fish is exceptional although the vegetarian roll accompaniment is less successful and almost indistinguishable from your standard workday bento box offerings. The dish is lifted somewhat by the homemade soy although we are firmly counselled against partnering it with the perfectly seasoned blue eye.

My dining partner has a particular fondness for the gyoza and while reasonably priced and rather moreish, they are far from unforgettable. We also share a plate of okonomiyaki, or Japanese pancake. It is overly sweet for my taste although the texture is an absolute pleasure.

The dessert offerings are limited and slightly overpriced given the simplicity of the dishes and ingredients. We share a bowl of green tea ice cream with red bean garnish. Given my fondness for this particular flavour I am disappointed to find it to be too subtle on this occasion. We also sample a pair of pan-fried glutinous rice cakes with an intriguing dusting of sweet and savoury flavours. They are delightfully chewy and simply delicious.

This being the first evening warm enough for al fresco dining magnifies my enjoyment. Although not the best Japanese food on offer in Melbourne, it’s a wonderful place to linger over a second glass of plum wine on a warm evening.

Mum Kaasama
315 Montague Street
Albert Park
Ph: 9696 0117
Tues-Sun: lunch midday-2.30pm; dinner 6pm-late.

Greek Style Seafood Soup

2007-08-24T18:39:00.000-07:00

Perhaps it comes as no surprise to you that I have never been a picky eater but something I have always adored from my earliest years is seafood. Despite having no French heritage it became a monthly ritual for my father to prepare a pot of bouillabaisse with all the delights to be had at the fish market that day. I still find it intensely comforting to dip chunks of bread into seafood broth. Somewhat inspired by this family tradition this is my variation.

In truth the only connection to Greek cuisine is the abundance of fresh seafood and the aromatic herbs but as far as I’m concerned they’re pretty good elements to choose. With the heady hits of thyme, oregano and fennel, unsurprisingly this is my entry to Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Scott from the Real Epicurean.

Greek Style Seafood Soup
Serves 4

Like all good seafood dishes, please alter the produce to include those offerings that are best at the market that day.

1 small carrot diced
1 washed leek chopped (I added additional leek chunks for texture)
2 cloves garlic chopped
1/2 onion diced
(I added a handful of scallops because they looked beautiful)
100g/3oz diced pancetta (optional but adds a richness that works beautifully with fresh seafood)
1 tin tomatoes
2 cups vegetable stock (or exceptional fish stock)
A bouquet garni of fresh thyme, fennel and oregano
12-16 shelled and de-veined prawns, tails intact
16 scrubbed mussels
200g/7oz kingfish fillets in large chunks (or any firm white fish)
Additional oregano to garnish

In a heavy based pot in a mixture of butter and olive oil sauté the carrot, leeks, garlic and onion over a medium heat until slightly softened. Add the diced pancetta and allow to brown slightly.

Add the tomatoes and allow to infuse with the aromatic base. Pour in the stock and the bouquet garni. Allow the herbs to flavour the broth at a low simmer for ten minutes.

Add the kingfish pieces and simmer until almost cooked through. Stir through the prawns and as they begin to turn opaque add in the mussels. Be careful with the timing so as to avoid overcooked seafood. Pop on a lid and allow the mussels to steam open for just a few minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open.

Remove the bouquet garni and season to taste. Garnish with the extra oregano and serve in large bowls with mountains of hearty bread.

Smoked Trout Pasta with Verde Sauce

2007-08-14T14:30:00.000-07:00

The verde or green sauce is a loose translation at best. It couples the zestiness of salsa verde, which so perfectly cuts through the richness of the trout, with a traditional pesto, the perfect partner for pasta. Ideally the verde sauce will be prepared with a mortar and pestle to retain the greenest shade possible which the heat of the food processor blade tends to destroy. I’ve chosen a tubular spaghetti which is substantial enough to stand up to the strong flavours, but not far removed from the traditional pairing of spaghetti or linguine with pesto. Pound the sauce for a few minutes in the mortar and pestle to release a little work stress, boil some water for the pasta, toss everything together and dinner is on the table. Serve it with the simplest of green salads.

This is also my contribution to Presto Pasta Nights hosted by Ruth of Once Upon a Feast.

Serves 4

150g sliced smoked trout
400g tubular spaghetti
2 caper berries chopped (optional)

Verde Sauce
1 cup basil leaves
1/3 cup pine nuts or cashews chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp white balsamic vinegar (or any white vinegar)
Generous pinch of salt

In a mortar and pestle begin to pound the basil leaves and nuts with the salt. Pour in the olive oil and vinegar and pound to a stage where the nuts and basil retain their texture. You want a roughly chopped sauce mixture than a purée.

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to packet directions. Drain, retaining a little cooking water.

In a pan combine the cooking water, sauce, pasta and trout. Reserve a little verde sauce to garnish with and serve in large bowls.

Circa 2002

2007-08-12T03:19:00.000-07:00

Pork belly may have stopped being fashionable on restaurant menus in 2002 but that doesn’t mean it still isn’t a superbly succulent cut of meat. With its moist flesh and a skin begging to be crisped, it is destined for the roasting tray. Biting into it is a unique textural experience with the crunchy skin yielding to sweet, succulent flesh. Fortunately I’m not a girl who is afraid of a bit of fat but I do recognise you have to treat it correctly. With a little bit of preparation a perfectly crisp finish is guaranteed. Pairing it with aromatic Asian spices ensures the perfect flavours to cut through the richness. Time for a revival? I think so.

Spicy Aromatic Roasted Pork Belly

500 g pork belly (skin on)
1⁄2 teaspoon sesame oil
small knob of ginger thickly sliced
1 clove garlic
2 teaspoons five-spice powder
1 star anise
2 tsp chilli paste (chilli and oil) or 1 dried chilli
2 tsp Sichuan pepper
2 tsp salt
3 cups hot water
steamed rice and gai lan to serve

To ensure a crisp skin pour hot water over the pork belly, fat side up. Dry thoroughly with paper towels and set aside to dry completely.

In a mortar and pestle combine the garlic, star anise, Sichuan pepper, five-spice and chilli paste with the sesame oil.

Score the fat of the pork lightly and then rub the mixture all over the pork, particularly into the incisions you have made on the skin

Preheat the oven to 220C. Prepare a baking tray with rack by filling it 1/3 of the way up with warm water. Scatter the ginger over this. Place the pork skin side up on a rack suspended over the water.

Allow to roast for 30 minutes and then turn the oven down to 180C and allow to cook for another 20 minutes. Your pork should be sufficiently moist and succulent not to require a sauce although any sort of soy reduction would work well. Slice thickly and serve with rice and gai lan.

Fast food

2007-08-09T06:12:00.001-07:00

In search of a quick post-work supper my natural instinct is to seek out the fast and the cheap. Unsurprisingly then I often find myself with a large bowl of dumplings at the Camy where the recent change in management has only brought good things. I then proceed to spend the money I have just saved at dinner on cocktails at that other Melbourne institution, Hairy Canary.

Pork dumplings in chilli oil

Good Evening Vietnam (passionfruit and vietnamese mint with vodka) and Lemon Cheesecake Martini

Although these are undeniably quintessential Melbourne dining experiences, some nights I find myself just wanting to be at home with the remote or a book in hand. My natural instinct on these evenings is to order takeaway but logic prevails. Even if you phone ahead it is still a good twenty minutes before the food is in your hands and longer still until it's on your table. If you can find somewhere that delivers more often than not you'll pay a ludicrous amount for an overly processed pizza and have the grease stained box to remind you in the morning. It just makes sense to make your own.

The Simplest Pizza

This will yield enough dough for two medium sized pizzas. I will leave it to you to determine how many servings that equates to in your household. The quantities can easily be doubled or halved. The only time consuming part is waiting for the dough to rise. Use it as an excuse for a long soak in the tub.

Pizza dough
7g sachet dried yeast
1 1/3 cups plain flour
1 tbsp olive oil plus extra
1 pinch caster sugar
1 pinch salt
lukewarm water

Combine the sugar with 180ml lukewarm water. Add yeast and stir. Set aside for 10 minutes. If your yeast is working correctly it should be foamy.

While you wait, combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Form a well in the centre and pour in the yeast mixture and oil. Mix until a rough ball forms. Turn it out onto a floured surface and knead for five minutes until smooth and elastic. Form into a ball and lightly oil the surface. Place in a bowl covered with a damp tea towel for one hour or until doubled in size. The time varies with the weather.

Pre-heat your oven to 220C and place your pizza stone or tray in to pre-heat for 15 minutes to ensure a crispy finish.

When dough has risen divide in half and punch down the balls. Roll out as thinly as possible. It may be easier to do this between two sheets of baking paper. When the desired thickness is reached simply peel off the top sheet and transfer the bottom sheet onto the heated tray.

Brush base with olive oil and top as desired. Today I opted for a little tomato paste, olives and proscuitto topped with parmesan and mozzarella. A real fridge cleaning exercise in case you didn't guess. Any recipe that lets me do that is surely a keeper.

A hint of spring

2007-08-08T04:25:00.000-07:00

As the mornings get warmer and it becomes a little easier to get out of bed, it makes sense to look beyond hearty winter fare for something lighter. Although it's almost time to put away the casserole dish, I still find myself seeking a bowlful of something comforting with just a hint of spring. This soup is warming enough to carry you through the last days of winter with a hint of springtime green. It is a lovely medley of creamy smoked bacon chowder and aromatic leeks and parsley that cut through the richness.

Although leeks are usually at their best in autumn, I have recently noticed beautiful baby leeks on offer that welcome spring perfectly. This dish would also be ideal for those seeking something to ease them into autumn when regular leeks are plentiful. Leeks are used in two ways. Firstly as an aromatic base and secondly to finish the soup with a burst of fresh flavour. Visit your butcher and seek out the best bacon you can find for delightfully moorish cubes that add a deep, smoky richness.

This will also be my entry to Weekend Herb Blogging created by Kalyn and hosted by Melissa of Cooking Diva.

Bacon and Leek Chowder

3 baby leeks or 1 large leek chopped
1/2 tbsp butter
150g/5oz smoked bacon cubed
1/2 finely diced carrot
2 small potatoes cubed
4 cups homemade chicken stock
2 tbsp cream
thyme
chopped parsley

Sauté two of the baby leeks or 2/3 of a large leek with the cubed bacon in a large pot. You shouldn’t require additional fat unless your bacon is particularly lean. Add the diced carrot and allow to soften slightly before adding the cubed potato. Pour over the chicken stock and add the thyme. Allow to simmer on the lowest heat until the potato is cooked through and the thyme is infused.

Season to taste. Remove the thyme. In a separate pan sauté the remaining leek in the butter and spoon over the soup. Take off the heat and stir through the cream to finish. Serve in large bowls with a generous sprinkle of parsley and buttery slices of bread.

Croatia: Part II

2007-08-06T07:05:00.001-07:00

Back to Dalmatia

After Dubrovnik, which is in Southern Croatia, we took three days to travel up the
entire coast to the Northern tip of Croatia. As is often the case with these things some of our best discoveries were the unexpected towns we stumbled across as opposed to the larger ones the guidebooks raved about. As you drive north of Dubrovnik the landscape varies between green woodland pockets studded with piercing blue lakes and a scenic ocean drive.

The Writer sent me on somewhat of a wild goose chase with tales of a pumpkin oil to which his Croatian ex-girlfriend had introduced him. He was adamant it wasn’t like olive oil or walnut oil or any other oil I named. My curiosity was sufficiently aroused; I had to buy some. I was sure I spotted bottles of it at the produce stalls dotted along the roadside but The Writer insisted that pumpkin oil was nearly black and the substance on sale was far too pale.

I put thoughts of pumpkin oil aside as we made out first stop on the Makarska Riviera. The Riviera is a collection of idyllic seaside resort towns with Makarska being the largest. With its stone paved esplanade, historic town square and monastery with a backdrop of mountain ranges, it is a lovely place to spend a day.

We made a brief stop there before detouring into Bosnia Herzegovina and again after departing Dubrovnik for a quick sunset swim. There are few tourists to be seen on the beaches in Makarska. After a blisteringly hot day it was absolutely heavenly taking a dip in the cool waters and looking back at the twinkling lights from the town at sunset.

The Gulf of Kvarner

Once more we found ourselves in Split before travelling north through the Gulf of Kvarner. The thermometer drops drastically as you head north and the terrain is far hillier. We wound our way through green valleys, thick forests and coastal roads lashed with strong winds. The landscape is somehow more rugged than Dalmatia. Delightfully many of the smaller towns we stopped in looked like they hadn’t seen a tourist in years. In a country so reliant on tourism it was wonderful visiting areas that had no such dependence.

At the upper end of the Gulf of Kvarner is Opatija which, in contrast, has a strong history of tourism. Also known as the Adriatic Nice, Opatija was once the playground of the Hapsburg elite seeking a coastal retreat. The grand Hapsburg hotels still line the seaside promenade. These grand wedding cake like structures are now filled with German and Swedish tourists. As a result there is no shortage of German pastries featured in the hotel patisseries and restaurants. Many of the establishments’ interiors and menus seemed in desperate need of a revamp but it almost adds to the charm of this area. The coastal town of Opatija was our gateway to our final destination, the Istrian region.

Istria

Dalmatia and Istria could easily be too different countries. The food, landscape, climate and culture are worlds apart. The pace in Istria is somehow slower than Dalmatia. It is the sort of place where you could spend days visiting quaint fishing villages and evenings feasting on local produce. Istria, particularly the coastal towns of Rovinj and Porec have a strong Venetian influence. In two hours you can find yourself in Venice during the summer months when a ferry service operates. Slovenia and Italy are also within easy driving distance.

Istrian cuisine has a strong focus on local produce. Allegedly even McDonald’s has to ensure 80% of its ingredients come from the region. The pride in local produce is unsurprising given the area is famous for its potent white truffles featured on almost every restaurant menu. This delicacy is paired with meat, seafood and pasta and so reasonably priced you could almost forget they are an indulgence. Also worth sampling is Istrian sausage, which seemed to be a wonderful medley of Italian and Croatian influences.

Our final stop was historic Pula. Unsurprisingly the highlight of this 3000 year old city is the old town. Also worth visiting is the Roman amphitheatre but the area directly surrounding it is undeveloped and offers little for the curious tourist to explore besides this majestic monument. The old town, however, offers an array of restaurants and shops featuring regional crafts and produce. I was sure this was the place I would secure the prized pumpkin oil that a few days of anticipation made me want to sample even more. I darted into grocery stores and delicatessens but with my severe shortage of Serbo-Croatian vocabulary, I left a trail of puzzled shopkeepers. I’m quite sure some of my hand gestures to symbolise pumpkin left a few deeply troubled. Finally one restaurateur was kind enough to give me the Serbo-Croatian name but sadly he also told me this regional specialty came from the inland villages. With a flight out of Croatia the next day it seemed I wouldn't be tasting it this time. At least I had a reason to return and explore more of this country, not that I needed one.

Croatia: Part I

2007-07-30T15:50:00.000-07:00

Split

Although there is a much faster service between the coasts of Italy and Croatia, taking the overnight ferry gives you the pleasure of waking up to a Dalmatian sunrise just as the ferry approaches the coast of Split. There is something wonderful about arriving in the city just as it awakens and discovering it quietly before the morning bustle begins.

We found ourselves in a charming apartment in a medieval building positioned in the heart of the city, just steps away from Diocletian’s Palace. While there is no interior as such to explore, the shell of the Palace walls is now home to a host of market stalls and restaurants. It is glorious to wander through at night discovering dimly lit bars tucked away in the walls.

The Palace also backs onto the market which offers a cornucopia of fresh produce, flowers, Dalmatian cured meats, cheeses and baked goods. It was hard not to develop a cherry streusel with coffee habit when the delightful warm, fresh pastries coupled with the rich heady brew were only moments away from our lodgings. The cobble-stoned streets of Split are lined with bakeries, gelatarias and cafés filled with deeply cushioned seating. Perfect for sinking into with a glass of wine after a day of swimming in the beautiful Adriatic.

Split is the perfect place to sample Dalmatian prosciutto which, while more heavily salted than its Spanish and Italian counterparts, provides a light start to dinner. Seafood features at almost every dining establishment on the Dalmatian coast with platters of scampi, grilled calamari, mussels and octopus in abundance. The preparation is simple but the produce excellent. The Italian influence is evident in dishes such as cuttlefish risotto and spaghetti with scampi. The offerings are similar at most restaurants so it is worth following the recommendations from locals as to where they dine to avoid paying a premium price at restaurants catering to the tourist market.

Keen to explore further we hired a car and took an unforgettable drive down the stunning coast of Dalmatia. The landscape is spectacular with intensely blue waters studded with thickly forested islands on one side and towering mountain ranges on the other. There are a myriad of small and large seaside towns to stop at for a flaky pastry filled with Dalmatian cheese, a scoop of gelato or just to dip your toes in the sea. Incidentally for those counting their pennies, one scoop of gelato almost anywhere on the Dalmatian coast remarkably costs exactly the same amount; 5 kunas or approximately 1 AUD.

Bosnia Herzegovina

We took a detour into Bosnia Herzegovina to visit Mostar. More evident than the Ottoman history this city is famous for is the unrectified damage from the shelling during the war. In contrast the Old Town, with the aid of UNESCO funds, is a vibrant neighbourhood filled with craft shops stocking beautiful wares such as Turkish coffee sets and restaurants with flower lined terraces overlooking the serene river. I couldn’t help but find it somewhat superficial in contrast to the existence of the majority of Mostar residents.

Dubrovnik

From Mostar we drove onto the fortress lined city of Dubrovnik. Unlike Mostar, Dubrovnik has undergone an impeccable reconstruction and aside from a small memorial there is no evidence of the damage done during The Siege. This tourist city hasn’t lost its charm with terracotta rooved houses surrounding the quaint boat filled harbour. A small market in the centre of town features local stallholders with wonderful produce. The peaches may be the sweetest you will ever taste.

It is easy to get lost in the endless terraced laneways and a delight to do so. Winding your way through them you may find yourself at a Dominican Monstery suspended above the city, uncovering a quaint restaurant hidden away from prying tourists offering the most succulent octopus salad or a candlelit bar with a wonderful live performance.

The best discoveries of all are the little cafés tuck into the fortress walls suspended above the deep blue waters. It is heavenly spending an afternoon sipping away while you take in the spectacular views or follow the locals and dive into the Adriatic for a quick dip.

Italia

2007-07-25T01:31:00.000-07:00

Roma

After leaving Barcelona we found ourselves in the first European city I ever visited as a child, Rome. While some may find this city crowded and chaotic, to me it is still a magical place. Perhaps I still have my childhood blinkers on but to me Rome is all about elegant men in well cut suits and gelato drips and walking through history. I am enchanted by the city. Although it's no hidden secret the Spanish Steps are a perfect spot for lunch, especially when you're on a four hour whirlwind tour as we were.

Tucked away under the Spanish Steps, Ristorante alla Rampa knows how to please tourists and locals alike. The staff are warm, attentive and flamboyant. It is an absolute delight to dine here and on a summery day there are few better places to sit quietly and take in this wonderful city. Unlike many dining destinations in this tourist locale this definitely is not a case of style over substance. Just like Rome this restaurant has both in hefty doses.

We nibble on grissini and delightfully chewy bread while sipping wine and browsing the menu.

We start with an excellent plate of bresaola drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil. The bresaola is meltingly tender and deeply flavourful. We fight over the last slice. A perfect way to start a Summer lunch.

The Writer chooses the "Mare e Monti" or tagliolini with clams, calmari, mushrooms and mussels I quickly devour a forkful or two. It is fresh, simple and flavourful. The perfect summer pasta dish.

I opt for the tacconelle pasta Roman style with lamb and pecorino cheese. The fresh ragged strips of pasta have enough substance to pair perfectly with the tender, rich, herbey lamb. Without fuss or pretension it is a beautiful balance of flavours and textures.

Unlike the locals our meal ends there but one day we will be able to handle the second meat or fish course. Instead we relax in the sun with an espresso and tiramisu. The tiramisu is topped with a rich custard not dissimilar to a zabaglione that makes our restraint seem wise.

Unfortunately after lunch we have to rush to Termini for the train to the coast so as to catch our ferry to Croatia the following day.

The details
Ristorante Alla Rampa
Piazza Mignanelli 18
Roma, Italia
06 6782 621

The Abruzzo Region

We take a train through the striking countryside of the Abruzzo region. The landscape is studded with mountaintop villages and serene winding streams. Luckily the rain holds off and we spend a sunny day at an Italian seaside resort.

The following evening we take the overnight ferry to Croatia and farewell this beautiful country at sunset to wake up to stunning Croatia at sunrise.

Trieste

Fortunately that wasn't the last we saw of Italy. While in Northern Croatia we hopped over to Slovenia and drove into Italy for lunch. It all seemed very indulgent. This time our lunch destination was Trieste.

We found ourselves in a charming little trattoria with a strong local following. We sampled the antipasti, pasta with a basil-less garlicky pesto and a rich, sticky ragú.

After lunch we settle in a sunny square with excellent coffee and even better desserts.

Barcelona

2007-07-22T02:21:00.000-07:00

In hindsight this city was easily my favourite food destination during our travels and it’s easy to understand why Barcelona is being touted as the new Paris. With exceptional produce that doesn’t need to be masked with fussy preparations, I can't think of a better city to spend your summer. From the fresh octopus doused in garlic and parsley at market tapas bars to afternoons of sangria and chorizo eaten while lazing in a sunny square, it is hard not to fall in love with Barcelona.

If visiting in the summer months it is far more enjoyable to spend your evenings bar hopping and sampling tapas and pintxos than settling down to a heavy three course meal.

Only on one evening did we do the latter and indulged in the obligatory paella. It gave us the opportunity to experience Can Cullertes, Barcelona’s oldest restaurant. The restaurant opens at 9pm in a city where it is shameful to be found dining before that hour. Fifteen minutes to nine there is already a queue winding its way down the lane. The paella is a little daunting in the warm climate but a sight to behold when the pan descends on the table.

Our preferred evening routine was to settle at a table in a sunny square. Our favourite was easily the Placa de Santa Maria where you can nibble on olives and sip beer while watching local Wedding festivities. We would then explore the city’s various tapas establishments of which there are no shortage. Most bars are lined with either pintxos (bread topped with everything from jamon to crab) or terracotta dishes filled with tapas. An almost unbreakable rule for both lunch and dinner is to sit at the bar. Not only are the prices better but you learn a lot from the local knowledge of your fellow diners and the staff. The staff at most bars were exceptionally friendly providing us with recommendations to other bars and restaurants and answering our questions on local wines and dishes by providing a complimentary taste. It is easy to spend an evening sipping local beer and nibbling away.

In an unprecedented move breakfast became my favourite meal of the day. As long as you steer clear of overpriced touristy strips such as Las Ramblas there is great delight to be found in perching yourself on a bar stool with thick hot chocolate and fresh, hot churros before you.

On other days we would head to what is perhaps my favourite place in Barcelona, Mercat de la Boqueria for Catalan pastries and coffee. The market is lined with stalls hung with an incredible assortment of jamon and chorizo, the freshest seafood offerings and a rainbow of fruit and vegetables.

Some of our most enjoyable meals were at one of the market Tapas bars, Bar Boqueria found at the back of the delicatessen stalls. Here you will sample the market’s freshest produce prepared simply such as octopus in parsley and garlic or grilled langoustines with a wedge of lemon.

It is hard to take more than a few steps in Barcelona without stumbling across yet another restaurant or tapas bar yet some of the city’s best food is to be had elsewhere. Slip into one of the city’s many delicatessens to select a picnic lunch of cheeses (the classic manchego and a semi-hard goats), quince paste, crusty bread and an assortment of jamon. We became addicted to sampling this Spanish prosciutto at every opportunity and enjoyed discovering the differences between regions and makers. It is worth trying at least a slice or two of the most expensive jamon in the market to taste the difference. Perfect to nibble as you wanter through the city. We almost never needed to use the metro as we saw far more exploring on foot.

We ventured out of the city twice. Our first excursion was a short train trip away to the beachside town of Sitges. With its white washed houses adorned with blue shutters and flower pot filled balconies it is an absolute delight to explore. After a day on the beach and wandering the hilly lanes we enjoyed a quick gazpacho before hopping on the train home before the summer showers drenched us.

Our second and unplanned stop was Girona, a medieval town filled with beautiful squares and bridges crossing the river winding through the old quarter. If you have more than a week in Barcelona it is well worth a day trip but if like me you fall in love with the city you will feel as if you could spend a lifetime there without needing to venture out.

We spent our days enjoying the art featured in the Picasso Museum and the palatial National Art Gallery of Catalunya. We wandered along the waterside of La Barceloneta and people watched. We explored the bohemian Gracia neighbourhood with its wonderful nightlife and the historic Barri Gòtic with its beautiful architecture. We sat in squares watching concerts and Spanish weddings and explored the city well into the night. We ate well and inexpensively although there was no shortage of more elegant establishments. As it was our first time in Spain discovering Catalan cuisine we were happy just enjoying the simple things.

Recommendations

Sagardi
Carrer de L’Argenteria 62, Barcelona
93 319 9993

A reasonably priced pintxos bar. These delicious bites featured on cocktail toothpicks are a great way to start the evening. Make sure to keep your toothpicks as the waiter will count them to calculate the bill.

El Rovell Del Born
Carrer Argenteria 6, Barcelona
93 269 04 58
www.elrovelldelborn.com

A modern pintxos bar with wonderful staff. Make sure to sit at the bar and save room for something from the outstanding dessert platter. I may have been partial to this place as when I asked the barman about cava (dry champagne) sangria his response was to give me a complimentary glass.

Mikel Etxea
Carrer Ferran 15 Barcelona
933 189 693
The wooden bar is laden with terracotta platters overflowing with tapas selections. Don’t be tempted to sit down for a meal as this is one of the pricier establishments due to its proximity to Las Ramblas. There is only one thing you’re here for but it is more than worth the visit; the chorizo wrapped jamon pintxos with its paprika juices dripping through the bread and a cold Spanish beer.

Els Quatre Gats (4 Gats)
Montsio, 3 bis Barcelona

Picasso’s famed hangout with a beautiful old world atmosphere and charming staff. This place can be a three-course tourist trap so take in the atmosphere over a coffee or if you want the more glamorous night service the large appetisers make for ample mains. Share the mussels and cuttlefish and leave room for a dessert. The staff were charming and gave us complimentary champagne with dessert.

Can/Casa Culleretes
Carrer Quintana, 5 Barcelona
93 317 3022

Founded in 1786 this is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona and the second oldest in Spain. It offers a wonderful selection of Catalan dishes at excellent prices. Make sure you get in early as there will be a queue when the restaurant opens at 9pm. Although the interior is not that familiar to the original 18th century diners there is a clear sense that this is a Barcelona establishment. Catalan matrons staff the restaurant providing a smooth service. The menu is filled with a mix of hearty meat dishes, simply prepared seafood and quintessential dishes such as gazpacho and paella. The gazpacho is excellent featuring superb produce. Closed Sunday and Monday.

In search of a little sunshine

2007-06-23T19:34:00.000-07:00

Somehow a Melbourne winter is not so cosy and romantic when your beloved is thousands of miles away. With The Writer there unsurprisingly London is calling!

We have decided it is also an ideal time for a little holiday. A carefree summer in Europe seemed an appropriate way for me to farewell The Writer for a little while before he settles in London and I return to Melbourne. Before that I look forward to a month of long days soaking up the sun on the European shores. I am hopeful the weather will be considerably warmer than our last visit to the UK a few months ago!

We will also be staying in Cambridge and this time I have been promised there will be punting!

I fly to London tomorrow then onto Spain, Italy and Croatia. I will attempt to post regularly but otherwise expect a full account upon my return.

"a hint of Buenos Aires"

2007-06-19T15:34:00.000-07:00

After a drama filled morning when The Writer who was supposed to leave this city indefinitely had his flight delayed, I had just the place in mind to celebrate having him in town for another 48 hours. The Age Cheap Eats Guide 2007 claims La Paloma brings a hint of Buenos Aires to Brunswick and I'm inclined to agree. Quite frankly I'm astounded more hasn't been written about this treasure but it's not surprising as tucked away off Sydney Rd with only an old fashioned barbershop for a neighbour, it's a well kept secret with a loyal clientele.

Tod Myles, the same man that brought us Rue Bebelons' on Little Lonsdale is also the creator of what has become my favourite café. In a city renowned for its coffee culture this title did not come easily, especially given it's on the other side of town to my home and work. In the past week alone I visited the establishment three times, primarily for quality assurance purposes but also to feed my growing churros habit. While these don’t sit well with my getting-Italian-seaside-resort-ready-diet they are quite simply irresistible even to males without a sweet tooth such as The Writer. These delightful little treats generously topped with dulce de leche are made on the premises and while not as delicate as other versions around town they are somehow more comforting in a home cooked way.

Myles is always in the kitchen, which on weekdays is often the front counter. Like a friend that’s invited you over for a casual lunch he asks if you’d like something to eat and puts together one of his masterpiece sandwiches while you look on and pop the next record on the turntable. This hospitality isn’t reserved for regulars but extended from the first visit.

Myles effortlessly blends classic and exotic produce to create sandwiches that put other café fare to shame. There is no talk of paninis or focaccias or pides around here although his custom made Chimmy’s bread is easily superior to those usual suspects. Don’t expect a menu as on weekdays the only option is what looked good at the deli that day including excellent Spanish cheeses that I suspect are sourced from Casa Iberica. There is a wider variety on weekends including a few hot dishes with South American influences but the trade off is Myles is behind the scenes.

What makes La Paloma particularly likeable is the honest food at exceptional prices. Sandwiches are a mere $5 and a coffee and churros will only set you back another $4. There’s no reason not to linger and put on another record.

La Paloma
259 Albert St, Brunswick
Ph: 03 9380 8520

A word of warning to aspring food critics...

2007-06-16T23:18:00.000-07:00

Just when i thought I'd never be able to reconcile my passion for food with a career in the law it turns out they can be very much related. Who knew it was so risky to describe a few dishes as being unpalatable?

The original review can be found here.

The recent High Court decision against Fairfax Publications for Matthew Evans' review of Coco Roco will probably put a few professional reviewers on edge. At trial jurors did not make out defamation and I imagine food critics across the country let out a sigh of relief. Apparently the buck doesn't stop with the jury on defamation. The owners of Coco Roco argued the jury's finding was unreasonable and the Court of Appeal agreed. A majority (6:1) of the High Court last week upheld that ruling. Apparently judges are better able than a jury to determine these matters according to the majority of the High Court. No prizes for guessing who dissented but it's worth a read to find out why.

It's important to note that given the introduction of the uniform defamation laws it is unclear whether this case really provides much guidance as to what will happen in future litigation. Under the new laws either party can choose to have a jury or judge hear the case (except S.A and the ACT where there is no jury option). Juries won't determine damages but will decide if the publication is defamatory and if it is whether any defence is established.

Here is Fairfax's version, the remarkably similar story as told by the other paper and the story as covered by The Australian which Matthew pointed out to me. Others have already weighed into this debate but for those in search of an unbiased account with a bit of time on their hands, the actual decision. The case now goes back to the NSW Supreme Court to consider the imputation the owners were incompetent, defences available to Fairfax and damages.

The Search for a Hangover Cure

2007-06-14T16:06:00.000-07:00

Having seen the sun before I fell asleep after the party, it seemed a fitting time to test the hangover cures on offer in The Writer's neighbourhood. He was determined to have a proper big breakfast so we ruled out Ray as not being the desired sort of egg and bacon establishment. The Writer vetoed Small Block, I assume due to the standard twenty minute weekend wait for a table, so instead we headed to its sister establishment, El Mirage.

We'd enjoyed a quiet weekend lunch there a few months ago and what a difference time and a review in The Age make. The place was buzzing but fortunately one thing it isn't short on is space. Unlike Ray you are not placed uncomfortably close to your fellow diner; a blessing as raging headaches and communal dining are rarely compatible. I developed a fondness for El Mirage's industrial design when I spent a morning there with my laptop and a pot of earl grey after being locked out . The service is a step above other Brunswick cafes and greatly appreciated when one is feeling a little delicate.

This time I opt for the BLT which much to my delight is actually a BLAT (bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato). A little extra fat, even of the healthy variety, is more than welcome. There's nothing minimalist about this offering, hearty slices of bread carry the substantial fillings that form one of the better BLAT's I've tasted.

For those with a sweet tooth I've previously sampled the cherry chocolate toast, which I think comes from Phillippa's. With its oozing melted chocolate chips and a coffee, it makes for afternoon tea heaven.

There's no Big Breakfast option but The Writer happily places an order of poached eggs with sides of home fries, mushrooms, chorizo and bacon. There's something blissful about the combination of fried potatoes and runny eggs and my fork ventures across the table more than I'd care to admit. Rounded off with an OJ and coffee he makes a remarkable recovery.

El Mirage
349 Lygon St, Brunswick East
Ph: 03 9388 0966
Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 8.30am-5pm

A Restorative Broth

2007-06-12T16:00:00.000-07:00

Nigella Lawson would call this Temple Food. I call it common sense. A heady broth that masks a virtually fat free meal. It relies on aromatic ingredients that take mere moments of preparation. Deeply comforting bowl food that permits guilt free second helpings. Best of all it is ready in minutes. I generally keep all the ingredients on hand with the exception of the mussels. I buy kaffir lime leaves in large packets from an Asian market and freeze them. Don't look shocked, the aroma keeps remarkably well. Near instant gratification.

It's the aromatic kaffir lime leaves that really make this dish and feel free to increase the quantity. I find the scent somehow more refined than lemongrass, closer to lime zest. The leaves themselves are certainly more elegant in appearance with their double-leaf structure that doesn't look unlike a figure eight. The leaf is probably best known for its uses in Thai cooking but also features in Indian and Indonesian dishes. This dish will also be my entry to Weekend Herb Blogging hosted this week by Rachel of Rachel's Bite.

Mussels in Aromatic Broth

4 kaffir lime leaves
1 lemongrass stalk- outer layer peeled and sliced lengthwise (optional, the broth won't suffer without it)
1 small knob ginger roughly sliced
2 cloves garlic smashed and sliced
4-6 cups stock or water and a stock cube (I use a Vietnamese brand with a strong five spice hit)
1 whole chilli
200g/7oz mussels (I used Tasmanian because I find them plumper and sweeter)
200g/7oz fresh rice noodles (I use a fairly thin one as the thick flat kind seem out of place here)

To garnish
coriander leaves
chopped spring onions
finely diced red chilli (I use the vinegary jar kind)
fresh limes

In a large pot bring the stock to the boil with the chilli, garlic, ginger, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass, if using. Allow to infuse for as long as you can wait, ten minutes should do. Don't add any salt at this stage as the mussels generally do this. Pour in the mussels, turn down the heat and pop on the lid. They should steam open in mere minutes.

In serving bowls place a small pile of the fresh rice noodles. At this stage you can remove the ginger and kaffir lime leaves if you wish but being the rustic (read lazy) cook that I am, I don't bother. Pour over the broth. Fresh rice noodles should only take 30 seconds to 1 minute to cook through in the hot broth. Spoon over a serving of mussels and a generous squeeze of lime juice. Garnish with coriander leaves, spring onions and red chilli.

A Winter Gathering

2007-06-10T16:37:00.000-07:00

I'm not the sort of cook that is naturally suited to fiddly creations. I'm happiest standing at the stove over something hearty that requires minimal utensils, pots and fuss. Yet this weekend I found myself up to my arms in hors d'oeuvres to celebrate The Writer's recent birthday and farewell him as he heads back to the UK. I can’t say I disliked it. If anything it's left me eagerly looking forward to catering for his welcome home party.

Menu
Tartlets of feta, cherry tomatoes with oregano
Tartlets of smoked salmon and crème fraiche with dill
Risotto slices topped with pesto and goats curd
Miniature sausage rolls

Dessert
Lemon filled sponge cake with a citrus and mascarpone frosting

To spare ourselves a night in the kitchen we made a few small purchases; pork and chive dumplings, dolmades, dips, nuts. At 4am when the last platter had been cleared the sight of those freshly steamed pork and chive dumplings gave me intense delight.

Tartlets of feta, cherry tomatoes with oregano waiting to be whipped into the oven

Tartlets of smoked salmon and crème fraiche with dill

I was expecting the sort of disasters that usually eventuate when catering for large groups but was blessed to only have a few minor hiccups; finding myself covered in flour ten minutes before people started arriving, a baking paper lined tray that caught ablaze and a soy sauce spillage that necessitated a quick costume change. All small things when the only work I had that evening was to put a few trays in the oven and top up my glass. Certainly nothing to leave me wishing I’d called in the caterers.

All of these recipes require minimal preparation and rely on the quality of the ingredients but if you insist on making your own pastry (which I rarely do) then I recommend the below recipe for puff pastry. It can be quite temperamental so I'd suggest trialling the recipe before the big event or simply do as I do and buy ready made sheets!

Shortcut Puff Pastry

3 tbps butter melted
3/4 cup (150g) cubed butter (keep it in the freezer until needed)
2 cups plain flour
1 tsp salt
1/2 iced cup water

Combine the melted butter, flour, salt and water until it roughly comes together to form a dough. Dot over the cubed butter but do not combine through at this stage. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Very lightly flour your counter and roll out the dough. If the dough becomes sticky chill again for 20 minutes. Fold over each side into the middle then fold in half so you have three layers. Chill. Place dough at right angles to previous position and roll out again only rolling in a left and right direction. Repeat the folding process and chill. Then complete one more rolling and folding process. This process should take about an hour including chilling times. Wrap and chill until required for use. When you're ready to use roll out to 4mm thickness and pre-heat oven to 220C.

For the feta and tomato tartlets I cut these into small circles and topped with a feta, a halved cherry tomato and a sprinkling of oregano. I used the remainder for a batch of spicy sausage rolls.

Paris Go

2007-06-08T14:48:00.000-07:00

In between visiting every inner-city food store in mad preparation for The Writer's Farewell and Birthday (talk about bittersweet) party, we managed to squeeze in a quick lunch. The European cuisine we both adore comes from the same European country we unfortunately will not be visiting in our upcoming trip so it was an easy choice. Paris Go is what an Australian French Bistro should be- simple. You will always find escargot and duck on the menu, a variety of French drops on the wine list and a warm, cosy interior that just manages to stay on the right side of too noisy.

We begin with deliciously chewy bread and rosettes of butter. Having let you see the size of the basket it is with great embarrassment that I admit these two starving shoppers had it refilled and devoured that too!

The Writer opts for one of the specials; crab bisque. The broth had a beautiful depth of flavour without being overly rich. The sort of bowl where you anticipate your next spoonful to try and determine what secret ingredient makes it taste so wonderful and whether you can possibly recreate it at home.

I opt for the escargot and a large portion of the bread basket was soaked in the garlicky butter that bathed these tender morsels. The snails sit atop a mushroom that also does a wonderful job mopping up those buttery juices.

The Writer selects another special of roast lamb in juniper berries with a port sauce. The lamb is delightfully tender and served with what appeared to be a wild mushroom risotto.

I struggle to choose between the coq au vin with truffled mash and the cassoulet but my love of duck and pork which both feature in the latter triumph. Studded with beans and what is also served as the provincial sausage, this may be the ultimate one-pot meal. Cassoulet recipes differ greatly between French regions and French restaurants and while this wasn't the best one I have ever sampled it certainly makes for a beautifully hearty Winter meal.

I was engrossed by a nearby table of four that consumed two dozen oysters and four additional courses (including a cheese platter) and four bottles of wine in the time we were there. I must return for a similarly leisurely lunch and soon. Too full for dessert and keen to get on with party preparations we finish with a complimentary drink for the birthday boy and a very strong espresso for the now designated driver.

In comparison to other inner city French restaurants in a similar price range, in my mind Libertine is clearly ahead. The food is more refined, the service smoother and the wine list clearly superior. Most importantly in a French restaurant it is intensely romantic, particularly if you get the corner booth seat on a Wintery night. Paris Go has a wider variety of dishes than Aux Batifolles but I prefer the interior of the latter so I think that one is too close to call.

It had crossed my mind to book somewhere fancier for the birthday celebration- Vue de Monde, Fenix, Interlude or Jacques Reymond perhaps. Then The Writer said something that made me sure sometimes the best choice is a place that does classic dishes well: "I like innovative food but I'm not tired of the simple things yet". Neither am I, in fact I get more joy from discovering a place that does simple dishes well than any other type of establishment.

Paris Go Bistro
116 Rathdowne St, Carlton
Ph: 03 9347 7507
www.parisgo.com.au
Wed-Fri noon-2pm
Tues-Sun 6pm-10pm
Licensed, BYO Bottled Wine Only. Corkage $3.50 Bottle

This little piggy...

2007-06-06T15:56:00.000-07:00

went from glistening in the window of a Chinese restaurant to a pillow of Char Siu Bao or Chinese steamed pork bun.

This beautiful marriage of sweet and savoury encased in the fluffiest of doughs is a regular on the yum cha trolley. I tried my first home made version this week at The Writer's father's house. It was his first attempt at dough and these turned out splendidly. It really is a no-excuses recipe. The succulent pork is readily available at many suburban Chinese restaurants although I do recommend sampling widely to find your favourite pork source. These are cooked in steamer baskets placed over a water filled wok on low heat. You can buy a basket for under $10 at most Asian grocers.

The recipe he used recently featured on the Cook and the Chef and in Delicious magazine. I have adjusted it below to personal taste.

Chinese BBQ Pork Buns
325g flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon Bicarb soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
10mls peanut oil
1/4 cup sugar
15g fresh yeast
1/2-3/4 cup warm water

Stuffing
250 g BBQ pork diced
1 spring onion sliced
1 clove garlic chopped
2 tablespoon soy
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon chinese wine
1 tsp cornflour mixed with a little water

Combine sugar, yeast and water together. The test of whether your yeast is working is when a foam develops on the surface. Sift in dry ingredients and combine to form a smooth dough.

Cover with a damp teatowel and leave in a warm place to rise for 2 hours. Knead and cover again. It should be doubled in size with an additional hour.

While rising briefly stir fry together the garlic and spring onions and incorporate the wet ingredients. Stir through the pork and take off the heat as it is already cooked and will be heated through in the steamer.

Divide dough into quarters. From each quarter you should get 3-4 balls. Flatten each ball into a disc shape. Add in a tbsp of filling and pull the edges over to form a smooth bun. Place buns in small batches into a steamer for 8-12 minutes. Don't overcrowd as these little puffs will expand.

The BBQ pork featured above and below was my lunch today with my first venture into dining in Preston. It was sourced from
C-Culture Seafood and BBQ Chinese Restaurant
437 High Street Preston
Ph: 03 9471 3633
($7 with rice or egg/rice noodle soup at lunch or 500g for $10)

Quick fingers and greedy eaters prevented me from taking shots of the actual buns on the night. For a photographic example of the final product I suggest checking out Mellie's shot from her Tummy Rumble's Yum Cha post (second shot from the bottom of the post).

The Foodie Blogroll
I'd also like to mention a really clever initiative of the Left Over Queen's; The Foodie Blogroll featured in the sidebar.

Vegetarians, look away!

2007-05-29T15:58:00.002-07:00

Yes I know I really should eat less meat. There are ethical reasons, health reasons and even economic reasons but I simply cannot do it. Not that I haven't tried. There was a period between the age of 15-16 where I wouldn't touch the stuff but these days there's nothing that makes me happier than a nice piece of red meat. I really am a very simple girl.

However, sometimes even I can admit the humble steak needs a little refinement. Something a little lighter. Perhaps a horseradish kick, some peppery rocket and some cool cucumber for balance. Everything in moderation, right?

Rare Beef Salad with Wasabi Cream

serves 4 as a light lunch or entrée

1 aged rib eye steak (about 600g/20oz)
1 tsp wasabi
2 tbsp cream or greek yoghurt
2 cups rocket/argula
1 cucumber sliced on the diagonal

Brush the rib eye with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. On a searing hot bbq or grill cook for 6-8 minutes on each side. Allow to rest loosely covered for 15 minutes so the juices are evenly distribute and you are left with a beautiful pink specimen. When properly rested carve into slices of medium thickness so it can stand up to the horseradish and rocket and set aside.

In a small bowl whisk together the wasabi, a generous pinch of salt and cream or yoghurt.

Place a thin layer of the wasabi cream on a serving plate. Layer over sliced cucumber, beef and rocket. Continue layering twice more and finish with a garnish of rocket.

A Pre-Market Feed

2007-05-29T15:58:00.001-07:00

Rarely do I manage to drag myself out of bed and get to the markets in time to get my hands on the best pickings. So when a friend suggested breakfast opposite the South Melbourne market I couldn’t have been happier. I was also delighted that we were steering clear of many of the over-priced and over packed cafés because nothing makes a girl grumpier than having to queue for her breakfast.

The George Hotel is like dozens of renovated Melbourne gastro pubs except for one thing- they do a bargain breakfast! For $9.90 you get coffee or orange juice, eggs your way, toast, hashbrowns, tomatoes, sausage, bacon and sautéed spinach. I must say their slices of toast seem to be the smallest in town so perhaps all those sides are meant to compensate. There’s also a vegetarian option and I’m pleased to announce the do a perfect poached egg. It’s certainly a far cry from the fried eggs and greasy bacon I remember at the pubs of my childhood.

If you don’t want to go overboard with the sides you can instead pick and choose. Also on offer are the usual suspects; muesli, eggs benedict, eggs Florentine and pancakes. For those looking for a lighter start they do a damn fine fruit salad which does an excellent job of easing your conscience when you buy up big at the market.

The George Hotel
139 Cecil Street (corner Cecil and Coventry Streets)
South Melbourne
Ph: 03 9686 5655

The French-Italian lovechild

2007-05-27T04:07:00.000-07:00

Also known as coq au vin pasta this little dish has all the rich flavours of a French bistro meal in a quick one bowl dinner. A chicken pasta that offers deep wintery flavours yet requires no slaving away in the kitchen. That's no surprise given it's The Writer's prized bachelor dish which I'll be contributing to this week's Presto Pasta Nights hosted by Ruth at Once Upon a Feast.

It is far removed from the French classic in terms of cooking time, ingredients and method but is just as deeply flavourful. The only connection to the original is that beautiful marriage of red wine and poultry. The garlicky wine juices would probably also work beautifully served with crusty bread and salad but the basil lends itself to a pasta dish with a generous serving of parmesan. There is something delightful about linguine or fettucine coated in slick red wine juices with morsels of tender wine drenched chicken. I love the striking purpley juices and red wine on these cold and blustery days but you could just as easily use white wine and vinegar. The white wine version is the classic recipe and more appropriate in Spring and Summer climates.

Coq au vin pasta

2 skinless chicken breasts diced
4 cloves garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
1-1.5 cups red wine (or white)
2tbsp red wine vinegar (or white)
1/2 cup fresh basil
1 packet (around 400g/13oz) linguine or fettucine
parmesan

In a large pan sauté the garlic in olive oil. Add the chicken pieces and brown. Pour in the wine and allow to bubble. Add enough wine so that one third of the chicken is above the surface unless using a particularly large pan in which case you'll need less. Reduce heat to a slight simmer. Taste spoonfuls regularly to make sure all is as it should be. Stir in the vinegar and season to taste.

Cook the pasta in a pot of boiling water with lots and lots of salt - pasta can
never have enough salt, not only because it tastes great but it raises the
boiling temperature of the water.

When chicken is cooked through but still moist stir through the basil leaves, just a moment or two before your pasta is ready. Turn up the heat to warm everything through.

Drain pasta and toss through the sauce coating the pasta strands well with the winey juices. Grate over more parmesan than you can imagine and serve.

Easy as Pie

2007-05-26T02:14:00.000-07:00

Not only does this flaky little delight require minimal effort but you'll have a forkful ready within 45 minutes. What's even more remarkable is that this one is on the low fat side as these things go. By using a smaller amount of sharper cheeses and olive oil spray instead of lashings of butter you can reach for a second piece without having to sacrifice taste. A perfect light lunch with a side of salad there will be nothing left on your plate or your hips.

This is also my contribution to Weekend Herb Blogging hosted this week by Ellie at Kitchen Wench.

Three Cheese and Spinach Pie

1 small red onion diced
2 cloves garlic diced
2 bunches silver beet
1/2 tsp nutmeg (optional)
2 tbsp chopped parsley
90g/3 oz feta crumbled
30g/1 oz blue cheese crumbled
30g/oz parmesan cheese grated
1 egg
1/4 cup low fat greek yoghurt
1/4 cup skim milk
4 sheets filo pastry
olive oil spray

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F

Remove the white stalks from the silver beet and wash thoroughly. Chop roughly and allow to dry while in a large saucepan you sauté the garlic and onion. Add in the silver beet and allow to soften and reduce. Stir through the nutmeg and parsley. Take off the heat and stir through the feta and blue cheese until combined. Season to taste.

In a large bowl whisk together the yoghurt, egg and skim milk with a pinch of salt until smooth and creamy.

Line a pie dish with the first layer of filo pastry. Spray with a little olive oil then repeat with remaining two sheets. Pour in the spinach mixture then pour over the egg mixture. Fold over the sides of the filo pastry. I like mine topless but you could easily add another sheet or two to cover. Sprinkle over the parmesan and bake for 30 minutes.

Smoked Salmon and Dill Pesto Pasta in a White Wine Cream Sauce

2007-05-20T20:11:00.001-07:00

I like flexible people and the same goes for recipes. This little pasta dish stretches from the dinner party to the picnic table to the brown-bagged office lunch. An extra splash of wine and a lovely linguine makes for an easy meal to whip up when friends pop by while using a penne or fussilli makes it picnic friendly. It’s fuss free (no chopping, just a little whizzing and stirring) but you’d never guess that from the taste. This is also my contribution to Presto Pasta hosted by Ruth at Once Upon a Feast.

Dill Pesto
1/2 cup basil leaves
2 tbsp chopped dill
olive oil
2 tbsp cashews
salt

Cream Sauce
1/3 cup white wine
150g/5oz smoked salmon chopped
200g/7oz pasta
2 tbsp creme fraiche or yoghurt

To make the pesto whiz together the basil leaves, dill and cashews in a food processor and drizzle in enough olive oil to reach the desired consistency. You want chunks, not puree so be careful not to over-process.

For the white wine sauce begin by heating the wine in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add in the smoked salmon and reduce the heat. Stir through the pesto. Turn off heat and stir through the creme fraiche or yoghurt.

Cook pasta to packet directions and stir through sauce. Garnish with a little extra dill if desired.

I've been tagged by Lucy from Nourish Me for a meme of 7 random facts. Unsurprisingly I've gone with a food based theme.

1. As previously mentioned on these pages I have a deep fear of live poultry. I’d rather encounter a tiger than a turkey with geese a close second followed by hens. There goes the fantasy of living on a self-sufficient farm.
2. My first job was slicing prosciutto at a Sydney deli. I lasted all of 1.5 hours but continue to have an intense love affair with small goods.
3. The first thing my father ever taught me was how to pick out fresh fish.
4. I began collecting cookbooks at age 7. If ever bed bound with illness not only did I get a day or two off school but more importantly received a cooking magazine to flick through. No comic books for me. Unsurprisingly I was always pretending to be sick.
5. I was a vegetarian for one year and a pescaterian for two more but the call of red meat was far too strong.
6. If I was to have a foodie profession it would be cheese making.
7. I got a reputation in pre-school for being the girl who took more than her share from the communal fruit bowl. I never have been good with sharing.

The Grapevine

2007-05-20T06:31:00.000-07:00

A picnic lunch and an 8 hour drive later I found myself in Adelaide on Friday night for weekend wedding festivities. Dear Reader while the ceremony was touching, the bride beautiful and the company delightful let me discuss the most important aspect of any nuptials; the food. Held at D'Arenberg Vineyard in McLaren Vale, the menu was drawn from their regular restaurant offerings and so I know I’m not merely teasing you by documenting the below.

We begin with canapés of stuffed olives and lime aioli while deciding between the entrée of lobster medallion with blue swimmer crab ravioli and lobster bisque or warm salad of smoked duck, asparagus and poached egg. I’ve forgotten how beautifully asparagus pairs with a runny egg yolk and a smattering of sea salt. The duck egg is deliciously rich and works well with the smoked meat. I’ve positioned myself well so I can also sample the lobster and am not disappointed.

After much deliberation I select the main of beef fillet with turkey liver pâté, truffle and wine glaze. I have an unusual apprehension about anything related to turkeys. It may or may not have something to do with being accosted by one at a nursery when I was three but I was impressed by the subtlety of the pâté paired with the stronger truffle flavours.

As the Writer was fretting over his speech my fork was quietly reaching for his main of Spanish paprika rolled lamb loin with pomegranate salsa which also came with cuminy chickpeas and a morsel of spicy minced lamb. As you can see from the photos we were quick to help ourselves to the sides of rosemary and garlic potatoes and green salad with cabernet dressing.

We finished with a beautiful cheese platter, Mexican chocolate cake with rose syrup and strawberries and coffee and petite fours. I think such an exceptional dining experience can only be a sign of a wonderful marriage to come!

D'Arenberg
Osborne Road, McLaren Vale
Ph: 08 8329 4888
Open for Lunch from 12pm onwards and dinner functions by arrangement
Cellar door open 10am-5pm

The Little Things

2007-05-17T00:49:00.000-07:00

I am not a proponent of portion size or small servings generally but there are always exceptions such as these little morsels of sweet, buttery goodness. These little cakes are not as dense as a friand nor are they as spongy as a muffin. Rather they are moist and studded with bites of melted chocolate and chunks of moist banana.

The sizing choice was twofold. Firstly while this mixture would work equally well as a larger cake today I was looking for picnic food and things in cupcake cases are too hard to pass up. Secondly served as a smaller cake you get a lovely golden exterior with a moist crumb inside melting into pieces of warm chocolate and banana. As you reach for your second just remember they’re so small you have no excuse not to have another one!

Banana and Chocolate Babycakes

(makes 10-12 depending on the size of your cases)

100g/3.5 oz softened butter
1/3 cup brown sugar
1 tbsp white sugar
1 tsp baking soda
1 egg
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup yoghurt
1/2 cup almond meal
1/3 cup plain flour
1 very roughly mashed banana
1/4 cup dark chocolate chopped

Pre-heat your oven 180C/350F. Cream together the butter and sugars. Add in the egg and mix well. Pour in the milk and yoghurt and stir until smooth. Spoon in the mashed banana and combine. Add in the almond meal and flour and stir through. Finally sprinkle over the chocolate bits and give one final mix. Place spoonfuls of batter into cupcake cases and bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes.

The rest of the bounty
While I am perfectly happy picnicking on these alone there will of course be some obligatory savoury items. A tub of marinated olives and these sandwiches from a Two Fat Ladies recipe make up the rest of the picnic fare.

Satay Anika

2007-05-14T20:47:00.000-07:00

Where do you take a woman who would sneak chillis into a French restaurant if she thought she could get away with it? For a woman who doesn't think a meal is quite right unless there's a hefty dose of heat involved a steaming bowl of laksa sounded like just the thing.

The first choice of Laksa King in Flemington was scratched off the list as they’re closed on Sunday. Luckily Satay Anika, although usually not trading on that day, had decided to open up due to a large booking which meant the rest of us with Malaysian cravings could also indulge.

The décor of this place reminds me of a 1980s Chinese restaurant in some rural Australian town. It seems their efforts are being invested in the kitchen instead which is fine by me. On offer are inexpensive hawker-style dishes. We avoid the satay which is its namesake which along with spring rolls I have quite an aversion to and focus on the mains. The laksa ($11.20), sambal noodles ($8.80) and an obligatory mee goreng ($8.20) all arrive with ten minutes despite the waitress’ concerns there might be a wait as the kitchen wasn’t fully staffed.

The laksa (at the top of the post) isn’t the best I’ve had but is a great deal better than many I’ve encountered. The generous serving of seafood, beancurd and two types of noodles in a well spiced coconut broth reminds me that I really must attempt this dish at home soon. The sambal noodles (above) has a wonderful smokiness but is disappointing if you’re expecting a strong sambal hit. The mee goreng is topped with pieces of meltingly tender beef and the chilli lover quickly douses her serve with some extra fresh ones. The attentive waitress quickly replenishes her supply. Looks like we came to the right place.

Satay Anika Malaysian Restaurant
140 Lygon Street
Brunswick East
Ph: 9380 9702
Lunch: Tues-Fri 12 noon-2.30pm
Dinner: Tues-Thur & Sun 6-1

The Kitchen Wars

2007-05-12T17:09:00.000-07:00

It's no wonder I've always been suspicious of the oven. I’m not one for surprises and until you open that door it’s almost impossible to be sure things are as they should be. For fear of the temperature dropping I almost always try and restrain myself from opening until the cooking time is up and sometimes that leads to unpleasant surprises. In this instance instead of finding burnished golden pastry I found something that looked like it hadn’t even been touched by the merest hint of heat. ‘It’s a disaster!’ I cried. The writer didn't even look up as he instructed me to turn up the heat and give it another ten minutes. He ignored my protests that the beef would be overcooked and that the pastry manufacturers had deceived me. He knew best. Ten minutes later I had two golden parcels of Beef Wellington.

Menu
Beef Wellington
Asparagus
Radicchio, rocket and avocado salad
Modern sticky date puddings

I will spare you my Wellington recipe partly because you can find it in the Gourmet Traveller Party Food cookbook (a lighter twist on the retro classic) and partly because I’m still smarting from my near brush with disaster.

Instead I will share something with you that has no hidden surprises; a simple little salad of peppery greens, creamy avocado and a zesty dressing.

Radicchio, rocket and avocado salad

1/2 cup radicchio leaves
1 cup rocket leaves
1 avocado sliced
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp olive oil
shavings of hard goats cheese (optional)

Whisk together the vinegar and olive oil and season well. Rinse the salad leaves and place in a large bowl with the sliced avocado. Slowly add the dressing. Use the smallest amount possible to give the leaves a glossy coating. Scatter over the goats cheese if using.

Individual sticky date puddings

The Writer requested a very moist sticky date pudding for dessert. I wanted something as far as possible from those cakey reheated offerings that spring up all too often at cafés and restaurants. I combed my books and the internet for recipes and with a few modifications the lightest, fluffiest little pudding was born.

Serves 3-4

1 cup chopped dates
juice of one orange
1/2 cup water
1 tsp baking soda

60g butter
1/2 cup caster sugar
1 egg
2/3 cup flour
pinch of cinnamon
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 cup cream

Butterscotch Sauce
1/3 cup brown sugar
40g butter
1/3 cup cream
1 tsp vanilla

Preheat oven to 180C/350F. In a saucepan combined the dates, orange juice, water and 1 tsp of baking soda. Let it fizz and bubble. Stir for around 5 minutes until it reaches a jelly like consistency. There should be a some liquid left so add a little extra water of necessary. Set aside to cool.

In a bowl cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Beat in the egg until well combined before adding cream. When smooth add date mixture and stir through. Finally add the flour, cinnamon and baking soda.

Pour the batter into greased ramekins. Mine were quite large and this amount filled three but it should do for four smaller ones. Place the ramekins into a larger roasting try filled halfway up with water. Pop it into the oven for 35-45 minutes until the puddings are golden on top and have risen slightly. Un-mould onto serving plates.

In a saucepan combine the brown sugar and butter over a low heat. When sugar has dissolved mix in the cream and vanilla. Allow to bubble and thicken slightly. Pour over puddings and serve immediately.

Uptown

2007-05-09T04:57:00.000-07:00

I am (un)lucky enough to work at two different ends of town; Spring Street and the legal district. Both bring their own dining challenges. It's hard to find a bite to eat after 4pm in the legal district and unfortunately that's the same time I'm desperate for afternoon munchies. At 4pm around Spring Street people are still enjoying their long lunches and who would blame them? It's becoming quite the dining precinct with newcomers Longrain, Oyster and Gingerboy joining The European, Grossi Florentino and Becco. As much as I love a boozy extended lunch some days I find myself short on both time and cash. What do you do when you only have a one hour lunch break and less than $15 in your wallet? Well read on...

Society

The re-opening of Society is a very pleasing development. Society apparently means people who are fashionable, wealthy and influential so that's the Spring Street egos covered. For us mere mortals compared to the $35+ mains you'll find down the hill at Grossis and Bottega it's exceptional value. Food here is only a whisper dearer than bargain spots Pellegrinis and the Waiters Club but for an extra dollar or two Society offers a sumptuous setting, excellent service and a wider variety of dishes. After work despite protesting I was only after a drink I found myself seated with a little dish of olives and bread accompanied by above average oil and vinegar. No wonder I'm always tempted to stay on here. While it's perfect for a work lunch I also recommend it for post-work drinks and nibblies, romantic dinners and even a morning latte and muffin.

6 tastes antipasto and a glass of bubbly for around $15 per head. Dinner mains $16-35. They used to do lunch specials in $10-16 bracket and hopefully this won't have changed.

Society
23-29 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Ph: 03 9639 2544

Sushi Masa

The Japanese chain on the other side is admittedly cheaper but the staff here are cheerier. It's easy to miss this place but when lunch boxes start from $11 with your main of choice along with miso soup and a salad, you'd better keep an eye out.

Chicken yakitori on rice, miso soup, salad and green tea for $12.10

Sushi Masa
10 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Ph: 03 9662 1322

Shark Fin House

This was the first place The Writer and I ever ate at back in the day when he spent more time on his mobile than talking to me. I'm not convinced it's the best yum cha in town but I'm rather fond of the place. If you have a lunch date this easily falls within the $15 a head range.

7-8 yum cha items and an endless pot of green tea for $15 per head.

Shark Fin House
131 Lt Bourke St, Melbourne
Ph: 03 9663 1555

Red Pepper Indian Restaurant

There's no shortage of cheap Indian restaurants up this end with the recently opened Jaipur Curry Bar sandwiched between Red Pepper and soon to open Green Chilli. In the Jaipur Curry vs Red Pepper debate the latter clearly comes out on top. You may have to fight for a seat but for $8-9 you get 4 pieces of tandoori chicken, garlic naan and salad or a curry and two naans. Both meals come with a free lassi.

Red Pepper Indian Restaurant
14 Bourke St Melbourne 3000
Ph: 03 9654 5714

To Autumn

2007-05-05T21:14:00.000-07:00

Apart from references to Keats, autumn also conjures up memories of rich, warm puddings. To me autumnal desserts are all about intense burgundy colours and deep flavours. Ideally they can be eaten with a spoon curled up in a large armchair. An open fire is welcome but not required.

The roasted plums are heady with the roasting juices of red wine, vanilla and rosemary. While perfect for savoury uses the rosemary here gives the plums a real aromatic hit and makes them taste as flavourful as they should but sadly haven’t this season. They are perfect served with a light cake as in April’s Australian Gourmet Traveler or with slices of sheep's milk cheese on a platter but as usual I wanted something more substantial. With it’s simple flavours and creamy texture the polenta is an ideal accompaniment and deceptively low fat.

This is also my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by Pat of Up A Creek Without A PatL

Roasted Red Wine and Rosemary Plums on Creamy Vanilla Polenta

Serves 2

Plums
4 red-skinned plums, halved and stoned
4 sprigs rosemary
1 cup red wine
1/3 cup water
1/3 cup caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla

Polenta
1/2 cup polenta
2 cups milk (low fat is fine)
2-3 tbsp sugar
vanilla (a scraped out pod is best)

Preheat oven to 180C/350F. In a medium saucepan heat the red wine, sugar and water with a dash of vanilla. When reduced slightly take off the heat. Place plums skin side up in a roasting pan and pour over red wine syrup. Roast for 20- 25 minutes.

Whisk together the polenta and a little warm water to make a paste. Heat the milk until warm in a saucepan over low heat. Whisk in the polenta, sugar and vanilla. Cook over low heat, whisking continuously until thickened. If the mixture leaves trails as you whisk through, it is probably at the right texture.

Spoon polenta into serving bowls. Top with plums and a little drizzle of syrup. Sift over icing sugar to serve.

Rosario's

2007-05-05T05:09:00.000-07:00

On an overcast Saturday afternoon where do you go for a bowlful of comfort food? When the grey skies leave you wanting something more substantial than the Brunswick and Fitzroy café offerings but you don’t feel prepared to brave the frequently overpriced tourist end of Lygon street, try Rosario’s. The food is uncomplicated, hearty, traditional Italian at reasonable prices without the Lygon street hype.

We tackle the breadbasket as we peruse the menu. I wish they’d softened the butter slightly as I consider the special of pappardelle with goat ragu with garlic and chilli. We begin with an appetiser of Polpettine di Riso ($5.50). These arancini balls don’t offer a big flavour hit but make for a delightful starter nevertheless.

For mains we try the Pappardelle con Polpettine ($18.50). This time the polpettine take the form of well seasoned meatballs on a bed of silky handmade ribbons of pasta. I must warn you though that the serving sizes here may defeat even the greediest diners.

We also try the Risotto di Frutti di Mare ($18.50) with an impressive seafood to rice ratio. The prawns, mussels and scallops are paired with a cream sauce that almost makes you forget the effect on your waistline.

There’s nothing challenging about this food but it’s intensely appealing with Winter around the corner.

Rosario’s
246 Sydney Road, Brunswick 3056
Ph: 03 9380 6311
www.rosarios.com.au
Tue - Fri 6pm till late, Sat - Sun 12.00pm till late

Aux Batifolles

2007-05-04T05:10:00.000-07:00

There is something incredibly comforting about this place. The dishes are old-fashioned classics. The sort of thing my parents were probably eating when they were dating. The servings are generous, none of these mere mouthful sized portions on oversized plates. The décor is simple – exposed brick and a black feature wall with prints and copper pans. The prices are very reasonable, especially given the serving sizes, so you can ask for the bill without trepidation. The type of place where from the moment you make the booking to when you step out the door, you don’t have a worry.

The front of house consists of one very capable man who refills your water and breadbasket an instant before you realise it’s empty. A lovely man who indulges you with just enough French to bring back your school days but not so much you need a dictionary.

We start with the shared plate which features cured meats, pickles, a gorgeous goats cheese, a beautiful terrine, stuffed eggplant, smoked salmon blinis, and a solitary oyster. It’s designed for one but easily feeds two.

The duck with confit leg served with pommes dauphinoise and Iranian figs is beautifully rich. The slices are juicy and tender while the confit leg meat melts away from the bone under the luscious crisp skin.

I convince The Writer to order the roast venison with blackcurrants and chestnuts. Soft slices of venison are paired perfectly with the sweet sauce. With the obligatory sides of pomme frites and a blue cheese and walnut salad I hope our arteries will forgive us.

We make the mature decision to skip dessert and finish with an espresso yet somehow as the waiter reads out the dessert specials a voice from our table says “one of those please” and neither of us has any regrets. Two proud little profiteroles arrive doused in chocolate sauce. They aren’t exquisite but they are simple and comforting and as we chase the last crumbs around the plate I think that’s what I like about this place. The food is not as refined as Libertine, the produce not as impressive and service not as smooth but it is a wonderful little spot.

The lovely Frenchman walks us to the door and I’m quite sure I’ll be stepping through it again soon.

Aux Batifolles
400 Nicholson Street, North Fitzroy
Phone: 9481 5015
Dinner Tues-Sun 6pm-late

Pear and Spice Cake

2007-04-29T17:17:00.000-07:00

I found myself with a bowl of these blushing beauties that I simply could not let go to waste and a girl can only eat so many poached pears. So I decided to make a spicy little cake that will also be my contribution to Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen. This little cake gives the appearance of hours slaving away in the kitchen when it can be ready for the oven in mere minutes. It is a one bowl wonder that requires minimal culinary skill. Just a little measuring and mixing followed by a little peeling and slicing. Pour the batter into a tin, arrange the sliced pears, sprinkle over a little sugar and you're ready to bake.

This one was a present for a dear friend who has been nothing short of wonderful over the past few weeks so I spent a little longer carefully arranging the fruit. For a quick morning tea treat you need not go to the effort. Simply pile it on and consider it to have the rustic look.

Pear and Spice Cake

3/4 cups almond meal
1/2 cup polenta (you could make this up with extra almond meal and flour but it adds a lovely texture)
1/2 cup plain flour
pinch of baking powder
pinch of salt
8 tsbp softened butter
3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/3 cup greek yoghurt
2 tsp vanilla
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ginger
2 tsp mixed spice
2-3 pears peeled, cored and sliced
extra sugar and cinnamon to sprinkle over

Preheat oven to 160 C/325F.

In a large bowl cream together the butter and sugar until thick and pale. Add in two eggs, one at a time and mix well. Add in the vanilla and yogurt then mix through the spices.

Add in the polenta, salt, baking powder, flour and almond meal and stir through. Pour into a greased and lined springform tin. A small one will give you a thicker cake but I prefer a thin one so went with a 25cm tin.

Layer over the pear slices and top with the sugar and cinnamon. Bake for 40-50 minutes and test with a skewer to make sure it is cooked through. Dust with icing sugar and serve with pouring cream or vanilla ice cream.

From this...

To this...

On the Side

2007-04-28T18:53:00.000-07:00

As much as I like getting to the main event, I'll willing admit sides often make a meal. I prefer the low fuss kind and that's why I love both of the below recipes. The little breads make perfect individual portions and in total require around 10 minutes of hands on work and another 10 minutes in the oven. They are ideal for those that consider making your own bread to be too much work. Slightly turkish in appearance, they are perfect for dipping or toasties.

The mint salad is full of fresh flavours and goes perfectly with skewers of grilled chicken, lamb or beef. It requires no more than minimal dicing and chopping. Easy.

Little Breads

1 packet (7g/ 1/4 oz) yeast
1 cup warm water
1/2 tsp sugar
1.5 tsp salt
3 tbsp oil
1 beaten egg
4 tbsp natural yogurt
4 cups flour
1 tbsp melted butter or ghee
1 tsp black cumin seeds

Pre-heat your oven to its highest temperature. In a small bowl combine the sugar, yeast and warm water and set aside in a warm place until the yeast froths. This should take about 10 minutes.

In a large bowl combine the flour and salt. Make a well and pour in the oil, beaten egg and yogurt. Mix well.

Make a well again and pour in the frothed yeast mixture. Combine into a smooth dough. It may be a little sticky but don't fear.

Knead once and place in a greased bowl covered with a damp tea towel to rise.

After dough has risen knock out the air and knead again. Place back in greased bowl and cover.

Place a baking tray in the oven to heat for 10 minutes. Grease a sheet of baking paper and form your dough into oval shapes. Place on the baking paper and brush with melted ghee or butter. Sprinkle over the cumin seeds.

Whip out the now hot tray and place the sheet on top before returning to the oven.

These will need between 6-12 minutes but watch them carefully for the last few minutes.

These make the perfect toastie. I love mine filled with pesto, tomato and boccincini Ray-style.

They are also wonderful warm with dips or grilled meats and salads such as the below.

Simple Mint Salad

1 cup torn mint leaves
1/4 cup torn corriander leaves
2 diced tomatoes
1 small diced red onion
1 cucumber diced
juice of two lemons
sea salt
1 tsp olive oil

Combine the herbs and diced tomato, onion and cucumber. Whisk the lemon juice and olive oil and a generous pinch or two of sea salt. Toss dressing through salad.

Pho Good

2007-04-27T23:58:00.000-07:00

Please don't think poorly of me but I can't help but feel smug as I tuck into my bowl of pho while watching people queue out the door. While there's certainly no shortage of Vietnamese restaurants in Springvale I can't help but think I'm onto a good thing when I see how long people are waiting for a table.

Another great thing about this place is while they do a wide range of the usual rice paper rolls, spring rolls, vermicelli, broken rice and pho offerings, they also do a decent selection from other Asian cuisines. A really blessing if you're dining with the pho-phobic. The char kway teo ($9.50) is as good as you'd find in most Malaysian restaurants. Smoky rice noodles with plenty of seafood.

The chef's special seafood laksa ($10) was a perfectly acceptable version but I'm guessing there was no one in the kitchen pounding away at lemon grass, galangal and shrimp paste. This was definitely a supermarket paste version.

What they really do well, unsurprisingly, is Vietnamese fare. The prawn and pork rice paper rolls ($7.50 for 4) are plump and fresh. An order of sliced beef pho ($7) arrives with meltingly tender rare slices of beef that continue to cook through in the aromatic broth. With a generous serve of rice noodles to slurp up it's hard to pass this dish by. They also have a wide variety of other pho and noodle dishes and the broken rice with pork seems to be a real hit with the regulars.

Thanh Dat
Cnr Buckingham & Windsor Avenues, Springvale (directly behind Springvale Rd)
9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 9.30pm Fri-Sat
Mains $7-$22
Phone: (03) 9540 8389

Slow Food

2007-04-26T22:14:00.000-07:00

Along with roast chicken, a hearty soup and a fail proof cake, I think stew is a crucial part of any culinary repertoire. Sometimes it’s nice to have a change from the standard school dinner style of stew with those little bits of celery and carrot. This version features meltingly tender meat in red wine with smoky pancetta. A far cry from the school dinner!

Beef and Red Wine Stew with Grilled Polenta

300g/10oz cubes stewing beef
90g/3oz pancetta diced
flour
1 onion diced
2 cloves garlic chopped
1.5 cups red wine
1 cup stock
1 tin chopped tomatoes
10 black olives
1 tsp chopped rosemary
1 tsp chopped thyme

Preheat oven to 160C/325F. Lightly dust the beef cubes with flour but don’t season so as to keep in the juices. In a stovetop proof casserole dish heat a little olive oil and brown the beef in small batches. Set aside.

Add the chopped pancetta and allow to brown for a few minutes before adding the onion and garlic. When onion is translucent add the red wine. Carefully scrape off any flavour packed bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Add the herbs, olives, tomatoes and stock and allow to simmer for 5 minutes. Return the beef to the pot. Wet piece of baking paper and place it over before popping on the lid- this will keep in the maximum amount of moisture. Cook in the oven for 2 hours. Check to see if meat is fall apart tender and cook further if necessary. Serve over grilled polenta.

Polenta
1 cup polenta
4 cups water

Combine the polenta in a bowl with a little cold water to create a paste. In a large pot boil the 4 cups water and whisk in the polenta. Continue to cook through for 30 minutes while stirring until it comes away from the sides of the pot.

Pour into a tray and allow to cool for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Cut into desired shapes and grill over a skillet or grill pan for a few minutes each side until crisp and warmed through.

Feliz cumpleaños

2007-04-23T21:17:00.000-07:00

I had the privilege of cooking for my father’s birthday last weekend.

The Menu
Paella
Rocket salad
Chocolate soufflés

The paella was his request. The salad was to ease our guilt over the rich dessert to come. The soufflé was an obvious choice. Back when I was a Sydneysider on a visit to Melbourne, it was the perfect ending to a dinner I shared with my father at Scusa Mi. It's a restaurant I don’t find particularly memorable generally but their chocolate soufflé with espresso ice cream has been on my mind lately.

Paella
I am a big believer that paella should be a dish of strong flavours- smoky paprika and seductive saffron. I like to play up both of these flavours in the way I prepare my ingredients. By slicing the chorizo and grilling it before adding it to the rice you prevent the addition of excess fat but also add an extra dimension of smokiness. Of course you can add whatever you want but I do prefer pork to chicken as it seems to work so well with the seafood. By marinating the pork in paprika and chilli powder you give it a huge flavour boost and how could that possibly be a bad thing?

½ tsp chilli powder
4 tsp smoked paprika ( I strongly recommend Casa Iberica)
1 tbsp oil
1 pork chop
1 chorizo sliced
12 mussels
8 prawns (peeled and headed)
1 onion diced
1 clove garlic
1 tomato diced
½ cup white wine
2 pinches saffron
2.5 cups Calasparra or Arborio rice
5 cups stock

Combine the chilli powder and 1 tsp paprika with the oil and rub over the pork. Season well with salt and allow to marinate for several hours.

Over a skillet or grill plate cook your sliced chorizo for 1-2 minutes on each side. Place aside. Now cook the pork chop for 3 minutes on each side. Place aside to rest a few minutes before slicing the meat into thin strips. Discard any excess fat but retain the bone.

In a large pot place your stock over a low heat so it stays warm and ready to be added.

Now for the paella itself I strongly recommend a copper based pan. It is the best way to get that perfect crust on the bottom.

In the copper based pan begin by cooking the onion in a little olive oil. When translucent add the garlic and then the diced tomato. Add the remaining 3tsp of paprika and the rice. Stir until the rice is coated well and blushing a brilliant red.

Add the ½ cup wine and deglaze the pan before adding the pork and chorizo. Add the pork bone for flavour but remember to remove it later.

Add 2 cups of stock and the saffron and allow to simmer on a low heat for 10 minutes. Add another 2 cups stock and allow to cook for another 10-15 minutes. You may need the final cup depending on how quickly your rice absorbs liquid.

Add the mussels and prawns and allow 8-10 minutes for them to cook through. Remove them when ready so they don't overcook and allow the rice to finish cooking. Leave it to stand for 10 minutes before serving. Top with the seafood and bring the pan to the table to serve.

Chocolate Soufflés
1/3 cup cream
¼ cup cocoa
150 g dark chocolate
6 egg whites
½ cup icing sugar

Preheat oven to 180 C. Grease 4 individual ramekins with butter and dust with sugar. Shake out the excess sugar and set aside.

In a heat proof bowl over a pot of simmering water melt the chocolate, cocoa and cream. When smooth set aside to cool.

In a large bowl beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. I almost insist you do this by hand. In a clean metal bowl it doesn’t take as long as you’d imagine and the arm workout you get almost makes up for the rich dessert you’re about to consume. Add the sugar slowly and continue to beat until glossy.

Add 1/3 of the egg white mixture to the chocolate before folding through the rest.

Pour into ramekins and bake for 12-15 minutes. Don’t open the oven prematurely lest the delicate things collapse. Top with a dusting of sugar and serve immediately with cream.

I promise these are practically fail proof and sure to rise but due to our greediness and desire to eat them in their fully inflated state I wasn’t quick enough whipping out the camera.

Going Green

2007-04-22T03:12:00.000-07:00

A glance at supermarket dips these days will quickly alert you to the fact we have moved firmly beyond the standard basil and pinenut pesto. In all honestly I'm rather attached to the original but for something a little more sharp and peppery, try this. It certainly beats those overpriced tubs that last all of five minutes. You'll have plenty left to toss through pasta, add to toasted pides or serve with grilled meats. I'm also a huge believer in the magic of pesto and eggs as served above with a side of smoked salmon.

Rocket, Parmesan and Cashew Pesto

1 1/4 cups firmly packed basil leaves
3/4 cup rocket
1 clove garlic chopped
3/4 cup grated parmesan
1/2 cup cashews
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Blitz in the processor until smooth but still a little chunky. Baby puree consistency is not desirable. Season to taste and serve immediately or pour over enough olive oil to cover and refrigerate covered for up to 1 week.

Makes about 1.5 cups

Agresto

This is wonderful with grilled meat but also makes a great starter spread over slices of (grilled) crusty bread, topped with fresh mozzarella and drizzled with olive oil and a good smattering of sea salt and pepper.

1 cup almonds
1 cup walnuts
2 garlic cloves
1 bunch parsley
1 bunch basil
3/4 cup olive oil
1/3 cup verjuice
salt
pepper

Roast the nuts at 200° C/390° F) oven for about 15 minutes. Rub the walnuts between tea towels to remove the bitter skins. In a mortar and pestle pound the nuts then add the herbs and garlic. When roughly chopped slowly add the oil and then verjuice. If you'd rather be spared a workout in a food processor blend the nuts, garlic and herbs together until roughly chopped. Leave the motor on and slowly add the oil in a thin stream then repeat with the verjuice. Season to taste.

Ray

2007-04-20T04:20:00.000-07:00

By the time I find somewhere I want to eat I am often ravenous. Accordingly I think it best to avoid Ray on weekends. If you're lucky enough to have a weekday off, head over and avoid the usual wait for a table.

I like the formula at Ray. It has the distressed look interior, hipster patrons and ethnic influences of its Brunswick St counterparts but, unlike many of them, the food is actually really good. It's also excellent value with most dishes around $10. The ingredients are excellent, the servings are generous and the flavour combinations, while innovative, almost always work really well. I'm saddened by the removal of the pancetta, pesto, baby spinach, boccincini and hummus pide from the menu but am tempted by nearly every item on offer. I settle for the baked eggs with lebanese sausage, feta and napoli. In all honesty I prefer Small Block's baked eggs with chorizo where the yolks are still runny, perfect for mopping up with thickly sliced toast. Ray's winning egg and feta combination is nevertheless certainly appealing. Those preferring more conventional cafe fare will be pleased to know they also do that and rather well. As the pesto, tomato and boccincini pide below shows it doesn't last very long either....Excuse my greedy impatience.

332 Victoria St
Brunswick 3056 VIC
Phone: (03) 9380 8593
Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm
Sat-Sun 8am-5pm

Calamari Fettucine with Roast Tomato Sauce

2007-04-20T01:36:00.000-07:00

This is my entry for Presto Pasta Nights; tender calamari with a rich tomato sauce over squid ink pasta. I love the texture of these deeply black ribbons and they seem a natural choice for seafood pasta dishes. While I adore the texture of calamari, I acknowledge it isn’t a big flavour contributor so I’ve paired it with a full flavoured roasted tomato sauce. This also make for excellent bowl food with each serving giving you a cleverly disguised serving of vegetables.

Calamari Fettucine with Roast Tomato Sauce

Serves 4

5-6 tomatoes halved (the best you can get)
1/2 red onion
1 large red capsicum/pepper quartered
1/3 cup basil torn
3 cups baby spinach
2 cloves garlic (unpeeled)
few rosemary twigs
1/4 cup white wine
1/3 cup prawn stock (vegetable stock will do)
250g/9oz calamari
1 packet black squid ink pasta (available at most delis)
lemon wedges

Pre-heat oven to 200C/400F. In a large roasting tray lay down a bed of rosemary and place the tomatoes and capsicum pieces. Let’s face it, these days tomatoes need all the help they can get to boost their flavour and the rosemary should help. Add the garlic cloves and onion and give it a generous drizzle of olive oil and a good seasoning of sea salt and pepper. Roast for 45 mins.

Allow to cool enough to remove the skins from the tomatoes and capsicums. Pop the soft garlic cloves out of their skins. Discard the rosemary. Slice the capsicum and onion into thin strips. In a large pan add a little olive oil and the skinned tomatoes, capsicums and garlic. Over a medium heat allow to heat through using the back of a spoon to squash the tomatoes into a sauce like consistency. Add the wine and allow the alcohol to cook off before adding the stock.

In a large pot of salted boiling water cook the pasta according to package directions. Don’t overcook as you’ll toss it through the hot sauce. Drain.

Drizzle a little olive oil over the calamari and season well. In a grill pan, skillet or bbq cook in small batches for a minute or two on each side. Be careful not to overcook to avoid mouthfuls of rubber.

Add the baby spinach to the sauce and as soon as the spinach has wilted, reduce the heat. Toss through the pasta and when warmed through and coated well with sauce, take off the heat. Stir through the basil leaves and place small piles in serving bowls. Top with calamari and finish with a good squeeze of lemon.

Wicked Fruit

2007-04-19T02:43:00.000-07:00

I've always considered myself to be the wicked dessert girl. Chocolate, cream and pastries over a fruit salad any day. Yet of late I've found myself opting for more and more fruit based desserts. As Autumn sets in I think of apple puddings with toffee syrup, berry cobblers and baked quinces. Of course with enough butter and cream fruit can be wicked too.

This is also my contribution to Weekend Herb Blogging this week hosted by Sher of What Did You Eat?

Baked Quinces with Red Wine Syrup

2 quinces peeled and quartered
2 cups water
1/2 cup red wine
2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp butter
a dash of vanilla

Preheat your oven to 200 C/ 400F. Using an ovenproof pan on the stovetop add te butter and sugar. When sugar begins to dissolve and bubble place quinces into the caramel syrup. Reduce heat to prevent burning and allow quinces to caramelize for a few minutes on each side. Add the red wine and vanilla and allow the quinces to absorb the winey juices for a few minutes before adding the water. Pop in the oven for 1 hour covered with a lid or foil. Remove fruit and place pan back on stove top. Allow syrup to reduce to desired consistency and then spoon over fruit. Serve with double cream.

Wildflower

2007-04-17T02:55:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I ventured into a part of town in which I don't usually dine but I think that's about to change. Wildflower in Canterbury is a bit of a gem and excellent value in an area where proscuitto costs $28 per 100grams. $280 per kilogram is too much even for this meat lover.

At Wildflower mains generally go for $30 but at lunch it's possible to get two courses for $27.50 or three courses for $32.50 so there is plenty of value to be had here.

We were there for a birthday but I'm told the function menu reflects what's on offer to the regular diners so the below should give you an idea as to their offerings.

The favourite from the entrees was the soft shell crab, avocado and herb salad. Crispy, salty chunks of crab atop a zesty herb salad drizzled with a creamy avocado puree.

For mains I chose the lamb rump with green lentils, red wine sauce and poached quince which came with an unexpected but not unwelcome serve of mashed potato. Perfect for absorbing the winey juices.

The slow cooked pork with mash and caramelized pear featured at the top of this post was also on offer along with several other options. The trend in mains seemed to be conventional food executed well. Probably well suited to the demographic.

The winning streak continued with the desserts including the chocolate honeycomb parfait...

The chocolate tart with coconut ice cream was rich with dark chocolate and light on the coconut- just what I like.

The clear winner though was the kaffir lime pannacotta and pineapple granita. The kaffir lime flavour penetrated through the pannacotta incredibly well yet there wasn't even a sliver of kaffir lime leaves to be found. The granita was a lovely fresh pairing and the perfect end to a rich meal. Unfortunately I didn't order it but was kindly offered a taste. A real case of order envy.

Although I didn't take a photo they also prepared the most luscious citron and yoghurt cake I have tasted. I almost wished it was back in the day when you went home with extra pieces of cake wrapped up at the end of birthday parties.

Wildflower
1 Theatre Pl
Canterbury
Ph:(03) 9888 6662,
Tues Sat noon-2.3Opm, 6.30-9.3Opm; Sun 9am

The Best Sushi in Town?

2007-04-17T02:17:00.000-07:00

Suzuran in South Yarra is a new kid on the block but then again in a city with more sushi joints than Starbucks, that's not saying much. To its credit The Writer tells me that its Camberwell sister has been there for 15 years and thinks the newbie is better than the original. I was probably drawn in by the shelves filled with sweet treats such as green tea ice cream, Pocky and red bean cakes which I browse while my order is prepared. The Camberwell shop has a much wider variety that will equip you to prepare almost any Japanese meal at home.

Back to the sushi. The freshness is unbeatable, the service is exceptional and it's excellent value for money. There is not a pre-made handroll in sight! A sushi and sashimi box will set you back $11.50 and a sashimi platter for two is $18.00. You'll be hard pressed to find a better value meal in South Yarra. Worth a try if you're not too ashamed to admit you like them are the California Rolls at $11.25 for 8 of the biggest pieces you'll ever see.

Suzuran
31 Chambers Street
South Yarra
Ph: 9804 7396
Tue-Wed 10am-6pm
Thur-Sat 10am-7pm

Chorizo and Lentil Stew

2007-04-17T01:50:00.000-07:00

Chorizo and Lentil Stew

The hints of the cold weather to come continue and so I turn to another one pot comfort food. This is a deep rich stew with just a hint of chilli heat. It makes for a hearty meal on its own but crusty bread is a welcome optional extra.

2 chorizos diced
1 chilli deseeded and chopped
1 onion diced
3 cloves garlic chopped
1 tin chopped tomatoes
1 cup stock or wine
1 carrot halved
2 bay leaves
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp dried mixed herbs
1 cup of lentils soaked overnight (I make a mixture of black eye peas, green lentils and barley)

In a large pot using a little oil sweat off the onions before adding the garlic and chilli. Allow them to take on a little colour but be careful not to burn. At this stage add the carrot. You don't want it diced as this isn't the sort of stew that suits itsy bits of the stuff. You will remove it later once it has imparted its sweetness.

Add the diced chorizo and allow to brown. Add the presoaked lentils and stir. Add bay leaves and smoked paprika. Pour in liquid and tomatoes. Bring to boil before reducing to a simmer. Pop on lid and allow to cook for 45 minutes while you pour yourself a glass of red. Remove the bay leaf and carrot. Feel free to drizzle it with a little olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt Nigella style if you're a Lawson fan.

Season stew to taste. Serve in warmed bowls with plenty of bread for mopping up juices.

The Whole Bird

2007-04-15T04:53:00.000-07:00

It was probably a very good sign that when The Writer and I arrived at Old Kingdom without a booking at 7:30 on a Friday night we were turned away. The Writer would not be deterred and while I loitered outside, peeking through the blinds to make sure money wasn't changing hands, he went in again and somehow managed to secure us a table on the condition we were out quickly.

That was all too easy at a place where you don't even need to look at the menu. As the tables around us proved there was only one thing to order here- duck. Within minutes the whole bird was proudly placed on the table and the waiter who turned us away was now happily slicing away.

No sooner did those pieces of crispy skin hit the plate then we secured them with cucumber, spring onion and sauce in our pancake wrappers.

Then it was time for round two. The succulent fleshy remains are stir fried and served with steamed rice. Add a pot of green tea and the bill came to a grand total of $55 for two. Forget Little Bourke Street, this is where you'll find the real duck action.

Old Kingdom
Lunch: Tues-Fri
Dinner: Tues-Sun
197 Smith Street, Fitzroy
Ph: 03 9417 2438

Poor Old King

2007-04-13T05:30:00.000-07:00

I make no claims as to authenticity. I use what I have on hand and what tastes good. I combine cuisines without shame and take short-cuts all too frequently but I don't think my dishes are any worse for it. Rather they seem to benefit from a few cultural influences and hit the table a little more quickly than the originals. Here I've combined Middle Eastern influences with Indian.

These dishes would work well with either bread or rice, a simple salad of diced cucumber, tomato and red onion and a side of natural yoghurt.

Kakori

The story goes that there was once an Indian Maharaja who had a great love of kebabs be they skewers of chicken, the whole bird or lamb cutlets. This poor royal had the great misfortune to become toothless in his old age but was determined not to give up his favourite food. He commissioned his chef to create a kebab that was so tender and soft even if he could consume it. So the clever little chef came up with this gem for his toothless king. I've eaten several versions of this dish but nobody knows the original recipe for two reasons. Firstly because being a largely oral culture these things are often lost with the passage of time or distorted Chinese whispers style. Secondly because there was a great tradition of famous chefs keeping their recipes in the family so their offspring would be sure of employment if they were associated with dishes of such fame that nobody else knew how to prepare. This is my version.

450g lamb mince
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp minced garlic
few strands of soaked saffron with soaking liquid
2 tbsp thick natural yoghurt
salt
2 tsp red onion water*

*Puree a red onion and then squeeze out the liquid from this mixture. The puree can be used as a base for curries but for this you want the water. These kebabs cook so quickly there is insufficient time for the onion to cook through and a raw onion taste would be overpowering.

In a food processor, combine the mince, spices and saffron with the soaking liquid, yogurt and onion water. Puree until smooth. The texture of this should be like a spreadable pate to ensure toothless diners have no trouble. Form the mixture into cigar or round patty shapes and refrigerate them overnight so the flavours can infuse.

In a tandoor oven or on a covered bbq flat plate cook the kebabs on a very low heat, turning once. It shouldn't take much longer than 10 minutes. Allow to rest before serving.

Smoked Eggplant Dip

If you are unfortunate enough to be serving picky eaters that express a dislike for eggplant, don't fear! What they don't know won't hurt them and this tastes vastly different to the original product so they're unlikely to know any better.

1 large eggplant
1 tsp minced garlic
2 roast garlic cloves, skins removed
1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp dukkah
salt

Roast the eggplant over a gas flame or bbq until the skin is charred and black. Rest loosely covered with foil for 10 minutes before removing the skin. Blend with the remaining ingredients and serve as a dip or accompaniment.

Moong Dahl

1 cup green mung lentils
1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp tumeric
1 tsp ghee
1 tsp oil
1 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp minced garlic
1 diced onion
1 tsp corriander power
2 tsp cumin power
1 tin diced tomatoes
corriander leaves
natural yogurt

Soak the lentils overnight. In a large saucepan cover lentils with water and cook with salt, sugar and tumeric until softened- around 20 minutes. In a separate pan sautee 1/2 tsp of cumin seeds and a 1/4 tsp of mustard seeds in the ghee and oil mixture. When they begin to splutter add the grated ginger and minced garlic. Allow these to cook off before adding the diced onion. Allow the onion to soften before adding the corriander powder and cumin. Sautee for a couple of minutes before adding the tinned tomatoes. Once the tomatoes melt into the mixture add this to the softened lentils. Cook over medium heat for around 10 minutes. Serve garnished with corriander leaves and a dollop of natural yogurt with rice or bread.

Bunnies, Chocolate and...

2007-04-02T23:03:00.001-07:00

The bun is a very personal thing when it comes to the level of spiciness and the choice fruits. I'm rather fond of a bun heavy on the spice but without currants or peel. I prefer plumper fruit and am enjoying the caramel effect of sticky dates right now. This is a recipe that lends itself to alterations so please feel free to substitute and add as you wish. As willing as I am to veer away from the original, please keep those choc chip monstrosities away from me!

Hot cross buns

2/3 cup sugar
7g sachet dry yeast
3/4 cups warm milk
1 1/3 cups plain flour
pinch of salt
1 tsp ground nutmeg
2 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp ginger
1/3 cup softened butter
1 egg
1/3 cup chopped dates
1/3 cup sultanas

Paste
1/4 cup flour
water
1 tbsp sugar

Glaze
1 tbsp water
1/2 tsp powdered gelatine
1 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp extract (vanilla or lemon)

Add the yeast to the warmed milk and combine. Rest covered in a warm place for 15 minutes. While it is resting, in a separate bowl combine the flour, salt, spices and sugar. Stir in the softened butter then add the egg. If your eggs are particularly large you may want to only add half an egg to avoid a too sticky mixture.

Add the milk and dried fruits and combine to form a dough. Cover and rest in a warm place for 1 hour. Pre-heat the oven to 210C/410F and have a cup of tea while you wait for the dough to double in size.

Turn the dough onto a floured surface. It will be quite sticky but don't fear! Kneed it for 5 minutes until elastic. Divide into 8 even pieces and roll into balls. Place balls on a tray lined with greased baking paper. Rest covered for 15 minutes while you prepare the paste.

Pipe crosses onto buns with a piping bag and bake for 15-20 minutes.

While baking warm the glaze mixture in a small pan on the stove top. Stir constantly over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Then take off the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Brush warm buns with glaze and allow to cool on rack if you have that sort of self restraint!

Makes 8

Matteo's

2007-04-02T23:03:00.000-07:00

As the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival comes to an end I can't help but think it's best for my waistline. My final stop was organised by the lovely Shen from work who arranged for our department to lunch at Matteo's. I'm rather fond of this place. It was the scene of one of my first dates with The Writer. If you like what follows you'll be pleased to know they offer a similar deal for $35 Monday-Friday throughout the year.

With a rather large group we were able to sample almost everything on offer. My co-workers were kind enough to tolerate me snapping away like a delirious tourist.

The entrees included kingfish carpaccio, chickpea soup with blue-eye cod brandade and curried yabby tails and pork belly with apple and coconut salad. In hindsight the entrees were probably more innovative than the mains but today I was strictly a mains and dessert girl.

The five spiced duck leg confit red-curry laksa with steamed coconut rice (try saying that after two glasses of wine!)came with a few unexpected lychees that weren't an unwelcome pairing. There was nothing spectacular about this and it veered towards being overly rich. The far more virtuous choice appeared to be the trout with steamed Vietnamese rice paper rolls but then again I've never been one for restraint.

This was evident when the dessert platter of chocolate panna cotta with Persian fairy floss (what else would you find atop a dessert in 2007?), warm apple crumble with cinnamon ice cream and chilled candied fruit nougat parfait hit the table. The cheese option of twice baked gorgonzola soufflé, dried fig salsa, taleggio on toasted fruit and nut loaf and marinated Meredith fromage blanc would probably also have been worth a try. The dessert platter was more pleasing to the eye than the palate but the generosity of the serve was commendable.

I'm not convinced I like Brendan McQueen's emphasis on Asian flavours in his savoury dishes. To me it feels a little like Pearl comes to North Fitzroy. This one hatter is nevertheless a beautiful restaurant with wonderful service and well worth a visit!

Matteo's
533 Brunswick St North Fitzroy
Open: Lunch: Sun-Fri noon- 3pm. Dinner: 7 days 6-10pm
Phone: 03 9481 1177
dine@matteos.com.au
www.matteos.com.au

A Pot of Goodness

2007-04-01T18:46:00.000-07:00

The Writer has been sick of late which got me thinking of the ultimate comfort food. This is 'the' soup. The one I make at the first sign of crisp autumn weather and the one that carries me through those last grey winter days when I'm desperate for a little sunshine. It's hearty, chunky and flavourful.

It's not the sort of elegant course that lends itself to glossy photos in Gourmet Traveler but given I most often eat it in my PJs while watching TV, I think that's best for all concerned.

Apart from a little chopping there is minimal labour involved. The perfect bowl food to cradle at the end of the day.

La Potee

A note on the title. There's nothing distinctly French about this but I'm rather fond of the rustic farmhouse image it conjures up. It was also the title of one of the dozens of recipes that inspired this pot of goodness.

180g/ 6oz piece of pancetta cubed
180g/6 oz green-brown lentils (canned are fine)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 carrot chopped
2 medium onions, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, sliced
225g/ 8 oz tin crushed tomatoes
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1.75 litres/3pints stock ( If it's 8pm midweek a nice short-cut is stock made up from chicken stock cubes and bacon stock cubes)
225g/ 8 oz cabbage, finely shredded
salt and freshly milled black pepper

In a large pot fry the pancetta without any additional fat until browned. Watch it carefully to prevent burning. Add in chopped carrots, onion and celery and allow to cook in the fat released by the pancetta. Stir in the lentils plus the contents of the tin of tomatoes followed by the crushed garlic then the stock.

As soon as the soup comes to the boil, put a lid on and simmer, as gently as possible, for about 1 hour. About 15 minutes before the end add the cabbage. This is a good time to warm up some bread in the oven. Season to taste. Serve with warm crusty bread.

This freezes brilliantly. Next time you want to be spared an hour aimlessly searching the supermarket for dinner inspiration, pick up some crusty bread and heat up a bowlful instead.

The Longest Lunch

2007-03-30T00:04:00.000-07:00

I like anyone free from restraint so unsurprisingly Libertine is a bit of a favourite of mine. I'm rather pleased this one-hatter isn't surrounded by hype making it perfect for intimate dinners. During the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival it's also perfect for a bargain lunch. The Restaurant Express Menu gets you two courses, a glass of wine and tea or coffee for $30. With our three hour stint I can't help but gleefully calculate that to be $10 per hour. Like Grossi Florentino, Libertine offered those beloved special touches such as the warm sourdough. John Lethlean it seems they've heard you. This was an excellent loaf.

The downstairs has a dark cosy bistro feel, a perfect escape on cold winter nights. Upstairs the feel is lighter with white walls, vintage wallpaper, ruby crystal chandeliers and a great soundtrack full of fabulous French clichés.

Because there are a few of us we decide to spread out our two courses and sample as much of the menu as possible. The entrée I sampled, the crispy river prawns with sauce gribiche, is a stack of sweet soft shelled prawns surrounded by a gorgeous tomato and prawn stock infusion that in my opinion outshines the gribiche.

Our table is split between those ordering the entrecôte béarnaise with salad and pommes frites and the moules marinière with aioli. The mains aren't exciting but are classics done well. Inferior to the exceptional food on the normal menu but it's hard to offer roast duck breast with quince or steak with truffles and foie gras at these prices. It's worth noting even à la carte both the mains and exceptional European wine list are well priced.

We finish by sharing plates of Roquefort with quince paste and toasted walnut bread and strawberry and crème chantilly sablé. Each generous cheese portion is easily enough for four people. The sablé are delightfully buttery yet lovely and light.

The outstanding sweet treat are the complimentary petits fours- a bite of dark chocolate mousse encased in chocolate. I finish with a pot of Darjeeling filled with a very impressive leaf indeed. The tea is characteristically light in colour yet becomes bitter if left too long in the pot- a sign that it's pure Darjeeling and not mixed with other leaves as is all too common. This isn't a place that takes short cuts and it's all about the special touches. Chef Nick Creswick (ex-Attica) and wife Zoe Ladyman (ex-sommelier at Ezard) certainly have a winning formula. A real gem.

The details:
Libertine
500 Victoria St, North Melbourne
Phone: (03) 9329 5228
Lunch midday-3pm Mon-Fri; dinner 6pm-10pm Mon-Sat

Posh Rice

2007-03-29T05:44:00.000-07:00

Risotto was the first thing I learnt to cook. My father placed me in front of the stove with firm instructions to keep stirring. I carefully ladled warm stock onto the rice, anxiously waiting for the grains to become plump. Accordingly it seems it was about time I made it to Simon Humble’s (ex-Scusami) risotteria Tutto Bene.

A friend and I arrive with an 8pm booking with not a table to be spared. We’re seated outside to peruse the menu and offered what later turns out to be complimentary drinks while we take in the Southbank views. Tick, tick, tick.

After a 20 minute wait we’re finally seated. The interior is warm, romantic and intimate, a little too intimate in some ways. Tables are rather close so if you enjoy a bit of eavesdropping, this is the place for you. Definitely not the place to break up with someone.

The bread is pleasant but the apparently award winning olive oil bearing the Simon Humble label sets it above average. You can take your very own bottle home for $22. Although there’s a wide selection of non-risotto options I’ve come with a mission. My friend’s risotto Isola – pork, veal and chicken with cinnamon and rosemary (18.50) is incredibly flavourful and so different to the usual risotto options that grace most menus. My only criticism is that the temperature seems to suggest the plates are spending a little too much time at the pass.

Without hesitation I decide on the anatra, funghi e salvia - braised duck, porcini mushroom and sage (20.00). It arrives heady with the aroma of porcini but seems to also contain another mushroom. I dare not ask what it is after reading about The Age reviewer who enquired about the type of mushrooms used at an Indian restaurant. The waiter returned after some time to announce “They are Coles mushrooms Sir.”

We finish with the Zabaglione (14.00) which is presented at the table with the waitress whisking the warm mixture in a copper bowl as she pours it over the crushed amaretti biscuits. It’s served with a scoop of ice cream that almost cuts through the intense richness. There's also the gelateria if you want your dessert to go.

Tutto Bene is ideal for a first date or long overdue catch up with friends but with rice this good, who needs a reason to visit?

Tutto Bene
Mid-Level Southgate
Southbank
Ph: (03) 9696 3334
http://www.tuttobene.com.au/

The Soup Bowl

2007-03-29T05:25:00.000-07:00

I don't think I'm a naturally adventurous person. It would explain why I'm terrified of abseiling and always need to consider a restaurant's menu online before making a booking. When I'm struggling for dining inspiration I always seem to end up with a bowl of pho and a plate of rice paper rolls. I have my favourites at Springvale, Richmond, Footscray and Swanston Street. Well it was time to break the habit and so one Saturday I ventured to Victoria Street, Richmond determined to find a new place to eat and a new order.

Thanh Phong, 240 Victoria Street Richmond bears encouraging signs like a mention in The Age Cheap Eats Guide. At around 2pm on a Saturday the place is packed with large groups of Vietnamese students. The waiters seem to be bringing out a constant stream of steaming soup bowls. The staff are warmer and more helpful than average for the sub $10 per person restaurant market. The menu has all the standards but I avert my eyes from the pho and rice paper rolls and decide to sample something a little different. The Prawn and Pork in Tamarind Noodle Soup ($8) fits the bill perfectly.
My father opts for the Thanh Phong Seafood Rice Noodle Special (also $8) which arrives looking particularly decorative with a crispy garnish. The broth is not as flavourful as pho and I'm disappointed not to get the heavy tamarind hit I was expecting. It's pleasant and disappears quickly enough but I don't imagine the craving for it is likely to hit anytime soon. Sometimes it's nice to try something else just so you can be reassured your standard places are your favourites with good reason!

Heart Foundation Approved

2007-03-27T02:16:00.000-07:00

Even Mc D's can get a heart foundation tick these days and being the competitive type I can't help but feel that surely I can do better than that. Just in case you were starting to worry that I was all egg yolks, butter and cream let me prove you wrong.

Every recipe writer, restauranteur and celebrity chef seems to be having a love affair with figs at the moment. As a child we had a treeful but a ripe one never made it to my greedy little mouth due to an ongoing battle with the native birds that were always one step ahead of me. Accordingly I find it a little difficult having to fork out for these babies nowadays. Who needs a swimming pool? I want my next house to have a fig tree. No birds thanks.

Fresh figs with balsamic syrup and greek yogurt

2 figs
2 tbsp greek yoghurt
slivered almonds

Balsamic syrup
3 tbs balsamic vinegar
3 tbsp water
3 heaped tsp brown sugar

In a shallow pan heat the vinegar. Keep well away, this mixture lets off some lethal fumes. After 1 minute add the water and sugar. Allow to bubble and thicken until you reach a runny caramel consistency. Allow to cool.

To serve plate figs with a dollop of yoghurt and almonds slivers. Spoon over cooled syrup.

Rich Chocolate Semifreddo

2007-03-23T02:04:00.000-07:00

There comes a time when you have to draw the line. I have a popcorn maker, a juicer and almost as many sandwich grills as fingers. Most of these appliances haven't seen the light of day in years. Accordingly I refuse to buy an ice cream maker so thank goodness for semifreddo. All you need is a stove and a freezer. Simple.

Rich Chocolate Semifreddo

This is not so much rich in the sense of artery clogging ingredients (although it has those too!) but rich in terms of the depth of chocolate flavour. Make sure you take this out a good 20 minutes before you intend to serve, perhaps less on a summer day. Semifreddo should only ever be partially frozen. That way you can enjoy the delicate moussey texture that sets this apart from your standard supermarket tub.

100g dark 85% chocolate (no less please!)
1 whole egg
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup caster sugar
dash of vanilla
1 1/4 cups single cream
2-3 tbsp chocolate or coffee liqueur ( I supplemented mine with the spicy poaching liquid from this) to add another layer of flavour
half a cup white or dark chocolate bits or raspberries (optional)

Melt the chocolate until smooth by your preferred method. In a saucepan, double boiler or even the microwave. I think if you're using good chocolate it deserves the heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water method. Don't let the water touch your bowl and be vigilant with taking it off as soon as it is smooth and melted. Allow to cool and then fold through the liqueur.

Place the egg, yolks, vanilla and sugar in another heatproof bowl over the saucepan of simmering water. Whisk for 5 minutes until you have a thick and pale mixture. Please don't fear if nothing happens for the first 4.5 minutes. The last thirty seconds will be magic.

Whip the bowl off and beat until cool. About 5 minutes with an electric mixer or 10 minutes for those who like a hand whisking workout. I fall into the latter group.

Fold through the melted chocolate mixture and the raspberries or chocolate bits if using and set aside.

In a separate bowl beat the cream until soft peaks form. Even by hand this doesn't take long and is strangely satisfying.

Fold the chocolate egg mixture through the cream. Line a loaf tin with cling wrap and baking paper for easy plating later. Pour the mixture into your tin and cover. A good bowl licking usually happens at this stage. Freeze for 4-6 hours or until firm. You can lift it out easily by pulling out the baking paper and then peeling it off.

To serve allow to soften for 10-20 minutes and serve in slices with a drizzle of melted chocolate or berries.

"Love and Hot Fat"

2007-03-22T04:52:00.000-07:00

Gordon Ramsay is a believer that this is the secret to perfect yorkshire puddings and I have to agree. My childhood classics included spag bol and roast lamb but yorkshire pud is something I've come to later in life. Light modern dishes have their place but quite frankly I like a bit of stodge and fat.

Having the afternoon off, I decided to put on a small dinner party. I don't have any heirloom recipes to turn to but thanks to Ed I've got Gordon to guide the way. As always I've tainted it sufficiently to not worry about Gordon's IP rights.

Roast Beef and Red Wine Gravy

1 kg scotch fillet
2 tbsp olive oil
6 garlic cloves
1/3 bottle red wine
1 cup stock

Heat the oven to 200C. Place garlic cloves still in their skins and a little olive oil in your
roasting pan while you sear the beef. That way when you transfer the meat to the pan it will develop a wonderful crust upon hitting that hot oil. Season the beef well and sear in on the stovetop with a little olive oil to brown on each side- about 4 mins. Transfer to oven and roast for 20 mins per 450g for medium.

When the beef is cooked transfer to a warm plate to rest, lightly covered with foil while you make the yorkshire puddings and gravy.

Using the roasting juices, pour off the excess fat and place over medium heat. Mash the garlic cloves gently before removing skins. Scrape off the treasures from the bottom of the pan. Add the wine and bring to simmer. Add
the stock and allow to bubble for around 10 minutes until reduced by half. Strain out garlic and check seasoning.

Yorkshire Puddings

Makes 6 muffin size puddings

110g plain flour
1/4 tsp salt
2 eggs beaten
150ml milk
2 tbsp fat

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Add the beaten eggs and half the milk. Beat until smooth then add remaining milk.

Put the oven up to 230C and place 1tsp of fat in each muffin hole. Pop in the oven until the fat is almost smoking. Give the batter a final mix.

Whip out the tray and quickly fill each hole until almost full. Sizzling sounds are good! Immediately place it back in the oven and bake 15-20 minutes until the puddings are risen, golden and crisp. Don't open the oven to check lest they collapse!

Roast Potatoes

4-6 King Edward potatoes peeled and cut into thirds
fat (preferably goose)
garlic cloves
salt
rosemary

Parboil the potatoes for a few minutes. Drain well and roughen up with a thorough shaking or use a fork to create lots of rough textured surfaces. Season well.

Place fat in a hot tray and pop in a hot oven- around 230C although you could cook it with the beef if necessary. Remove fat laden tray when almost smoking and quickly pop in potatoes and a few whole garlic cloves- watch out for splattering fat- lethal stuff!

Pop tray back in oven and bake 30-45 mins depending on how large your potatoes are. Add rosemary sprigs only for the last 10-15 mins to avoid shards of burnt rosemary.

Carve beef thinly and serve with gravy, potatoes and yorkshire puddings. Add greens of choice- I love lemony green beans to cut through the richness and peas for something a little sweet. Tonight I added a little roast pumpkin and green beans.

I know most people don't need to be told how to make a roast dinner but sometimes it's nice to be reminded that we should make them more often.

Danny and Joe

2007-03-21T02:54:00.000-07:00

"This chintzy local hangout looks like a retired Neighbours set, but Danny and Joe's Israeli soul food has won the devotion of the surrounding Jewish community."~The Age Cheap Eats 2004

Admittedly this isn't an area renowned for it's dining spots. However if you're in this part of town and want a change from Las Chicas, head further up Balaclava to Hawthorn Road. Danny and Joe at 154 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield has the potential to be overpriced and mediocre if you order incorrectly and a brilliant bargain spot if you choose well.

The chicken shashlik pita is the must order item and a great way to sample the menu. Soft pockets stuffed with an array of the salads and dips on offer. Each mouthful offers a new delightful surprise. What really makes this dish is the shashlik- delicately spiced skewers of smoky chicken. The other benefit of ordering the pitas as opposed to the unexceptional mains is that you leave room for dessert. Cheese blintzes, crepes or something from the many cake stands adorning the counter.

My understanding of Israeli food is limited but there's no shortage of local regulars which makes me think this place is the real deal.

Charcuterie 101

2007-03-17T17:02:00.000-07:00

I have a few embarrassing weekend rituals. Inspecting properties out of my price range, lingering a little too long sampling at the deli counter and watching animal documentaries so I can share interesting little discoveries like the fact hippopotamuses may be carnivores. I kid you not. It appears there's a new habit to add to the list - making charcuterie. Perhaps the deli ladies will be spared my indecision now.

For my birthday I received the insightful book Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn. You couldn’t get further from Donna Hay. This book means business and it truly is the encyclopaedia of salting, smoking and curing. It is divided into chapters on salt-cured, dry-cured, smoked food, sausages, confit and terrines. This is not heart foundation approved stuff. I admit some of the ingredients are hard to source and the authors have a minor obsession with kosher salt but this is my sort of recipe book.

Some people are wine snobs. I am a small goods snob, probably to the detriment of my waistline. I lust after jamon, soppressa and chorizo. I am fascinated by the smallest variations in taste and texture and disturbingly excited about the ability to create my own. Weary of getting in over my head, however, I decided to begin with something simple. Having missed the joys of 70’s entertaining I decided to begin with a pâté.

Pâté Grandmére

This is a basic, inexpensive, hearty, country style paté. No fancy in-lays or ingredients. Perfect to smear generously on crusty bread. I’ve bastardised this recipe sufficiently to feel comfortable reproducing it without major copyright infringements.

500g chicken liver cut into chunks
1 tbsp (kosher) salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 bay leaves
olive oil
1/4 cup shallots diced
2-3 tbsp brandy
2 slices white bread, crusts removed and chopped
1/4 cup milk
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 large egg
1 tsp grated nutmeg

In a large bowl toss the chunks of liver with salt, pepper and the bay leaves. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

Pre-heat your oven to 150C/300 F and freeze your processing blades and bowls. The chilling is crucial if you want the mixture to bind correctly.

In a large sauce pan over high heat sear the liver in batches until you get a good crust. The more crust the more flavour so make sure your liver is in chunks for the maximum crust to liver ratio. Once all are seared transfer to a plate and refrigerate.

In the same pan add your shallots and cook until translucent. Deglaze the pan with brandy and transfer to a bowl. Chill.

Combine the bread, milk, cream, eggs and nutmeg. Set aside.

Process the liver, shallots and bread binding mixture until smooth. Pour into a chilled bowl and stir until the mixture takes on a sticky consistency.

Line a terrine or baking tin with plastic wrap or baking paper with excess to cover. Pack the mixture in tightly and tap to remove air bubbles. Fold over the excess paper or wrap and cover with a terrine lid or foil.

Place the tin in a roasting pan filled with hot water to come halfway up the sides of the terrine. Bake for 1 hour.

Remove the tin from the water bath and set aside to cool. Place a 1 kilogram weight on top to ensure it reminds tight as it sets. Allow to cool to room temperature before refrigerating overnight. Will keep for up to 1 week.

Next on the list is homemade prosciutto.