Summer Trifle

As this week’s host of Weekend Herb Blogging, it seemed about time I got around to my own entry. I’ve chosen to indulge in the abundance of beautifully ripe stone fruit and glut of raspberries that are one of the greatest joys of summer. Such glorious produce requires little preparation, which is fortunate as there is nothing worse than a steamy summer kitchen. It does, however, benefit from the addition of some luscious summer flavours. I’ve chosen to feature the fruit in a light summer trifle that is a perfect finish to any meal. It begins with the traditional cake base and while I’ve chosen to use leftover sponge, really any cake will do. The traditional custard has been replaced with layers of rosewater scented greek yogurt. I can think of no scent more suited to summer evenings. The raspberries are macerated in sugar and balsamic to give them a sensational intensity of flavour while the stone fruit needs nothing more than its own aromatic juices. The sweet and tart juices the raspberries have been steeping in make the perfect soaking alternative to sherry for the sponge. This layered creation is light enough to be a regular treat yet with such an intensity of colours and flavours it makes the perfect dinner party indulgence.



Summer Trifle of Stone Fruit and Raspberries

Serves 2

1 cup raspberries
1 cup peeled and diced stone fruit (peaches, nectarines and apricots all work well)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp sugar
1 cup greek yoghurt
1 tsp rosewater
leftover sponge, chiffon or butter cake (or really any plain cake) cut into wedges

Set aside a few raspberries to garnish. In a small bowl combine the rest of the raspberries, balsamic and 1 tbsp sugar and set aside to seep. In another bowl combine the greek yoghurt with the remaining sugar and rose water. I will often double this component as the rose water yoghurt is a perfect aromatic accompaniment to many desserts or simply on its own.

In an individual or a larger serving dish begin by layering cake wedges to form a thin layer. Top with a little of the raspberry syrup and half the raspberries. Spoon over a layer of rosewater yoghurt, using about half a cup. Top with a stone fruit layer before another layer of cake. Repeat with remaining raspberries and yoghurt. Garnish with reserved raspberries and serve.



Just a reminder to email your Weekend Herb Blogging entries to me by Sunday and check back for the roundup on Monday.

Salad Days

With summer creeping up on us comes the time for lighter fare. As I will be experiencing a European winter instead of long summer days in less than two weeks, I am particularly keen to savour the simple things I know I will be missing all too soon.

Salad days involve excellent produce prepared without fuss and with minimal time actually spent in the kitchen. I'm always ready for a spring evening lingering over moist roast chicken and a bottle of wine because I know it requires mere minutes of preparation and I can read outside in the sunshine while it achieves a glorious burnished perfection. The recipe below is ideally suited to the leftovers of the said bird but I’ve been known to roast just for this purpose. While there is certainly no shortage of roast chicken recipes, this is my spring version; chicken deeply infused with rosemary and lemon and creamy slices of avocado balanced with sweet roast capsicum over a bed of perfectly dressed salad greens. There is something magical about the simplicity of chicken and avocado particularly when you drench the lot in a dressing of herby pan juices whisked with red wine vinegar. As those of you who follow this blog will know all too well, I don’t exercise a lot of restraint in gastronomic matters but this is one salad that will never leave you feeling deprived.

The warmer climate has also brought something else; a second wind of culinary inspiration. While I am unlikely to start seeking out fussy and pretentious food or enjoying laborious preparations, I am desperately keen to discover new produce, markets and local specialities both here and on my travels. Mostly importantly, perhaps, I am keen to start sharing it and writing more regularly.



Lemon and Herb Roast Chicken with Avocado Salad

Serves 4

1 avocado
1 red capsicum
4 cups mixed salad leaves
1 whole chicken, the best you can find
lemon
rosemary
olive oil
1 tbs red wine vinegar



Wash your bird thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels. Squeeze half a lemon over the chicken and once juiced place it in the cavity to infuse the chicken with its aroma during the baking. Season liberally with salt and a generous drizzle of olive oil. In a suitably large roasting pan place your chicken on a bed of rosemary. In the same tin pop in your capsicum for roasting. Add another glug of olive oil for good measure and place uncovered in an oven, preheated to 200C. After 40 minutes baste your chicken and cover with foil if browning too quickly. Remove your capsicum at this stage. It should be done within another 25-35 minutes depending on the size of the bird. Prick the thigh and if the juices run clear, you’re ready to proceed.

Remove the chicken from the pan and cover with foil while you prepare the salad. Skim any fat off from the pan juices and remove the rosemary. Place your tin on the stovetop and whisk in the red wine vinegar. You may require less depending on the quantity of pan juices. Season to taste.

Slip the skin off your roast capsicum to reveal the sweet flesh. Deseed and chop roughly. Halve and deseed your avocado. Slice generously. When your chicken has cooled sufficiently, shred the meat and fight off any fingers attempting to devour the crispy lemony skin.

On a large serving platter place a bed of mixed salad leaves. Top with the shredded chicken, avocado and capsicum. Drizzle with the pan juice dressing and finish with a good grinding of pepper and a handful of baby basil leaves. Serve with crusty bread and wine.

Daring Bakers II

For my second Daring Bakers task I found myself facing a multi-layered challenge. This month Mary from Alpineberry had us creating Bostini Cream Pies. A velvety custard topped with a slice of chiffon cake and finished with a drizzle of chocolate. Pure comfort food.

For my version I opted for two variations. A lemon chiffon instead of the traditional orange featured below and I opted to garnish with an extra smaller star shaped slice of chiffon because there's something lovely about that golden star in a pool of chocolately darkness. I was fortunate enough to have custard that set with a little chilling and so plated with a larger star shaped custard base below my first chiffon slice.



As for the taste, imagine the lightest lemon cake on a silky bed of custard smothered in chocolate and you have the Bostini Cream Pie. With a chilled set custard it's decadent but refreshing, especially when paired with the light and lemony cake. I've also tried it with warm custard and an extra smothering of chocolate glaze for a rich and comforting treat. The recipe with a traditional orange chiffon can be found below and feel free to see what the other Daring Bakers created here.

Bostini Cream Pie
(from Donna Scala & Kurtis Baguley of Bistro Don Giovanni and Scala's Bistro)
Makes 8 generous servings


Custard
3/4 cup whole milk
2 3/4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 whole egg, beaten
9 egg yolks, beaten
3 3/4 cups heavy whipping cream
1/2 vanilla bean
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon sugar

Chiffon Cake
1 1/2 cups cake flour
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1 1/3 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup canola oil
1/3 cup beaten egg yolks (3 to 4 yolks)
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
1 1/2 tablespoons grated orange zest
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup egg whites (about 8 large)
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Chocolate Glaze
8 ounces semi or bittersweet chocolate
8 ounces unsalted butter

To prepare the custard:Combine the milk and cornstarch in a bowl; blend until smooth. Whisk in the whole egg and yolks, beating until smooth. Combine the cream, vanilla bean and sugar in a saucepan and carefully bring to a boil. When the mixture just boils, whisk a ladleful into the egg mixture to temper it, then whisk this back into the cream mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain the custard and pour into 8 large custard cups. Refrigerate to chill.

To prepare the chiffon cakes: Preheat the oven to 325°F/180C. Spray 8 molds with nonstick cooking spray. You may use 7-ounce custard cups, ovenproof wide mugs or even large foil cups. Whatever you use should be the same size as the custard cups. Sift the cake flour, sugar, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Add the oil, egg yolks, orange juice, zest and vanilla. Stir until smooth, but do not overbeat. Beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Gently fold the beaten whites into the orange batter. Fill the sprayed molds nearly to the top with the batter.
Bake approximately 25 minutes, until the cakes bounce back when lightly pressed with your fingertip. Do not overbake. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack. When completely cool, remove the cakes from the molds. Cover the cakes to keep them moist.

To prepare the glaze:Chop the chocolate into small pieces. Place the butter in a saucepan and heat until it is just about to bubble. Remove from the heat; add the chocolate and stir to melt. Pour through a strainer and keep warm.

To assemble: Cut a thin slice from the top of each cake to create a flat surface. Place a cake flat-side down on top of each custard. Cover the tops with warm chocolate glaze. Serve immediately.

A hit of heat

It's enough to make a climate change sceptic or even a seasoned Melburnian wonder. One day the thermometer hits 35C, the next it plummets to 15C. It’s all pink blossoms and shorts one day only to be followed by stockings and extra blankets the next. The only way a wardrobe challenged girl can comfort herself is with a bit of heat inducing food. Hopefully the warm sunshine filled days and blossoms will return soon.




In some meat-eating households chicken is the staple protein, for others it’s red meat but in this house there is a strong seafood bias. You may have noticed my penchant for mussels but having recently discovered a source for the freshest, plumpest juiciest little ones, I really can’t help myself. With that promised hit of heat, these differ from my usual preparations.

This Thai inspired recipe offers the traditional balance of hot, sour, salty and sweet. The mussels soak up a spicy warming broth finished with the freshness of coriander. A rich garlicky base and a blast of spice are balanced with a zesty lemon hit. This is anything but a subtle bowlful. When the cold weather unexpectedly sets in, sometimes that’s just what you need.




Thai Red Curry Mussels

1 tbsp peanut or canola oil
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 small red chilli diced (deseeded if you prefer less heat)
1 stalk lemongrass (crush the base to release the aromas)
2-4 kaffir lime leaves
1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste
1.5 cups vegetable stock or water (don’t use stock cubes as combined with the mussels you’ll have an overly salty broth.)
1 tsp fish sauce (nam pla)
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
1 tsp lime zest
1/2 tsp palm sugar
500g/1lb mussels, debearded and scrubbed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander/cilantro

In a large pot sauté the garlic over a medium heat. As it begins to soften, add the chilli. Next add in the lemon grass, curry paste, palm sugar and fish sauce and allow the curry paste to cook off, releasing the spicy aromas. Pour in the stock and lemon zest before adding the mussels. Pop the lid on the pot and allow to steam until opened.

Take off the heat and remove the lemon grass stalk and kaffir lime leaves. Stir through the lime juice. Adjust seasoning to taste and ladle generous serves into bowls immediately so you can serve the mussels in all their plump and juicy glory. Serve with steamed rice, a Thai green papaya salad and lemon scented finger bowls.

A little secret

Like many food lovers I have followed the rise of ethnically inspired ingredients such as Iranian fairy floss and pomegranate molasses. There is one seemingly undiscovered ingredient for which I have a particular fondness and it originates from the humble date; jaggery. With its treacle like consistency and toffee coloured appearance it is heavenly as an alternative to maple syrup drizzled over pancakes. It also makes the perfect adult’s sundae when poured generously over scoops of vanilla bean ice cream. Deliciously sticky jaggery has a complexity of flavour to which its syrupy cousins can only aspire. It lacks the cloying sweetness of other sugars and is instead seemingly infused with an aroma of dates. This delightful syrup will always have your reaching for seconds.

Although jaggery can be derived from both sugarcane and the sap of the date palm tree, it is the latter that is a delicacy across India, particularly during the winter months when it is widely used. Also known as gur, it comes in the form of a semi-spherical block that must be melted down to a caramel consistency. Once in this form it is traditionally used in rice puddings and milk based confections. In Australia and other countries it's imported and available at many Indian and Sri Lankan grocers.

While most commonly found in recipes derived from the subcontinent, this syrup is also ideal to add a depth of flavour anywhere you would use maple or golden syrup or caramel. I’ve chosen to pair it with some particularly plump dates to echo the flavours in the jaggery. The dates are baked in individual moist almond cakes that are later drenched with the jaggery and smothered with crushed pistachios. The cake has a deliciously crunchy crust and the lightest golden crumb within, perfect for soaking up syrup. With a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a rose water infused cream, it’s luxurious enough for a dinner party but easy enough for a sinful solitary indulgence.

For those feeling inspired to discover new herbs and vegetables head over to Kalyn's Kitchen for the Two Year Celebration of Weekend Herb Blogging hosted by the creator, Kalyn.


Pistachio and Almond Cakes with Date Syrup

The recipe below makes enough for two individual ramekins but is easily doubled.

1/3 cup softened butter
1/3 cup sugar
1 tsp orange zest
1 egg
2/3 cup almond meal/ground almonds
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup chopped dates
pinch of baking powder
pinch of salt

1/4 cup chopped unsalted shelled pistachios
1/2 cup liquid jaggery

Note: If you buy your jaggery in the solid form, the melting process is simple. There are many ways to do it but I find the easiest is to place the jaggery in a pot with a few spoons of water over a low heat. It will melt down quickly and it's then up to you what stage of thickness you desire. For this recipe I've stopped at a syrupy consistency.

Preheat your oven to 180C and lightly butter two individual ramekins. In a large mixing bowl cream the butter, orange zest and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually incorporate the egg and combine well. Stir through the almond meal, flour, salt and baking powder. Slowly pour in the milk until your reach a smooth consistency. You may find you don’t require the full amount.

Pour the batter into the greased ramekins and bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes. Invert the cakes onto a rack and allow to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle slice off the tops to form a level base suitable for plating. Place the individual cakes upside down on serving plates. Re-heat your liquid jaggery until you have a hot syrup. Spoon the jaggery over the cakes while still warm and sprinkle with crushed pistachios. Serve with ice cream or rose water scented cream.

Chicken Yakitori with Udon Noodles in Miso Broth

All too often relegated to the role of appetizer, I am a proponent of yakitori featuring as a main. I’m rather addicted to these skewered caramelised morsels and along with gyoza they inevitably appear when I’m left to do the ordering. I love the deliciously sweet charred exterior and moist flesh within. Salty, sticky and terribly moreish they are a delightful post-work snack with an Asahi. They are also just the thing to turn a steaming bowl of udon, sprinkled with strips of wakame and an obligatory serving of virtuous greens into something a little more special. Like many untraditional pairings it is surprisingly delicious and like all the best mid-week dinners, reasonably balanced and quick to prepare.

This will also be my entry to Presto Pasta Nights hosted by Ruth at Once Upon a Feast.

Chicken Yakitori with Udon Noodles in Miso Broth



Chicken Yakitori
200g/7oz skinless chicken thighs or breasts diced
4-5 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp Mirin
2 tbsp Sake
1 tbsp caster sugar
wooden skewers (soaked in water to prevent burning)

I have substituted the sake with rice wine vinegar in the past to save a trip to the shops. Feel free to fiddle with the ratios to your taste.

Over a medium heat warm the soy, Mirin, Sake and sugar. Bring to the boil stirring all the while to prevent the slowly caramelising sauce sticking to the sides of the pan. Reduce the heat and taste. Add additional soy or sugar if necessary for balance. As the sauce reduces the flavours will concentrate so be careful not to add an excess of soy. Allow to simmer for 5 minutes until thickened.

Thread bite sized cubes of chicken breast or thigh onto pre-soaked skewers.

Baste the skewers with the thickened sauce and place on a pre-heated grill plate. Continue to baste and turn the skewers until the chicken is cooked through. The sauce should caramelise and turn the pieces a glossy brown. Be careful not to overcook to ensure you are left with deliciously moist flesh within.


Udon Noodles in Miso Broth

Small bunch gai lan or green of choice
200g/7oz udon noodles
2 tbsp miso paste
3 cups water
1 sheet wakame shredded into strips

While the yakitori is cooking, steam the gail land for a few minutes.

In a medium sized pot add the miso paste and water. Allow to heat through and the paste to dissolve. Add the noodles and allow to cook through on a gentle heat. Just before serving, sprinkle over the wakame.

To serve ladle the noodles and miso broth into bowls. Top with gai lan and serve with yakitori.

A homecoming

When Sydney has been your home for the bulk of your years and you visit as often as I do, it is quite impossible to pop into Tetsuya’s, Guillame or even Bill’s on every trip. Even if my finances would permit such indulgences, my approach to travel rarely involves being organised enough to make reservations. This time I was on a mission of sorts. To prove that the city that is all too often criticised as having more expensive and less satisfying dining experiences than Melbourne can offer delightful fare to those on a budget who never think to book ahead. Melbourne certainly stands up to the test for the fiscally and organisationally challenged with inexpensive and memorable spots such as Camy’s and Tiba’s, so it was time to see if Sydney was up to the challenge.

The Buddha Belly




Although it’s located in the suburbs, this little treasure is worth the drive. Discretely hidden away between a nurseries and vegetable sellers, it’s a real treasure. The restaurant consists of a series of open Balinese structures that allow the flow of cooling breeze on a warm Sydney day. An impeccably manicured Japanese style garden surrounds. The eye is immediately drawn to a pond filled with the fattest golden koi and crowned with a waterfall spilling over moss-covered rocks. A traipse through the gardens and over the Japanese bridge is a must between courses.



The food proves fusion cooking is far from dated when it’s as well executed as it is here. There are also a few standard café options. Our table samples the fried calamari with green papaya salad, fried tofu salad with green tea soba noodles and the pumpkin and leek soup with goats cheese dumplings (all approx $16).




Washed down with the Buddha Belly juice consisting of mango, lychee, coconut, jackfruit and pineapple, it’s the perfect spring meal.



The Buddha Belly
327 Mona Vale Road, Terry Hills
PH: 02 9450 1504
www.thebuddhabelly.com.au

For those in search of a faster, cheaper Asian meal you can’t beat Chinatown or for something a little different, Newtown with its array of Thai and Japanese restaurants in the sub-$10 bracket. No wonder the students love it so much.




Different Drummer Cocktail and Tapas Bar

For those in search of an affordable dinner venue it’s hard to go past Glebe Point Road. It’s a sensational melting pot of candlelit Italian, exotic Morrocan, spicy Indian, trendy vegetarian and cheap and cheerful take away spots. In search of a drink and a nibble we settle into the more discrete of the two tapas establishments, Distant Drummer. It’s packed with locals by 7pm which isn’t surprising given they offer a free cocktail with every one that you order from 6-7:30pm.



Perched on a bar stool at a window counter it’s the perfect spot for people watching and to linger over a cocktail on a balmy evening. The tapas (all $10) are actually a mix of Spanish style dishes and bar snacks with a few ethnic twists. We opt for the chargrilled lamb brochettes in Moroccan marinade and chorizo with cherry tomatoes & basil. The skewers of juicy lamb are paired with a simple green salad. The richness of the chorizo works beautifully with the sweet tomatoes and clean flavours of the basil. We order bread to mop up the juices.

Different Drummer
185 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Ph: 02 9992 9406
www.differentdrummer.com.au

It’s hard to pass up the churros with chocolate sauce for dessert but for those in search of a real chocolate fix, visit Chocolateria San Churro, a little further up Glebe Point Road or the Lindt Chocolate Cafe in Martin Place or Cockle Bay where we indulged in the below on another evening.





Badde Manors



Perhaps unsurprisingly I find myself back in Glebe a few days later for a visit to the market. I’m led to a café that easily rivals Melbourne stalwarts such as Ray. Featuring indulgent vegetarian fare ($7-14), the sensational plates passing by suggested meat eaters would feel far from deprived. There’s also a tempting cake selection. With eight pastry chefs in addition to the café’s own there are unsurprisingly some fantastic creations on offer. On this occasion I just indulge in a couple of scoops of refreshing sorbet but I’m determined to return to sample more.




Badde Manors
37 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
http://www.baddemanorscafe.com/

Lyne Park Café
On my final morning for a farewell brunch I’m eager to do something traditionally Sydney and what could be more Sydney than a waterside meal? In a city where $40+ mains are the norm, my self-imposed fiscal constraints lead me to Lyne Park Café, Rose Bay. The service alone is enough to make me return. It’s warm and attentive with a sincerity that’s all too rare.



Alongside the traditional egg options the menu boasts superbly fluffy ricotta pancakes and fruit. They don’t even raise an eyebrow when my dear dining companion requests a side of bacon. I opt for the corn fritters with bacon, avocado and relish. The fritters are perfectly cooked and all the components work together beautifully. It’s sweet, salty and zesty. Although there isn’t a spare table the staff happily let us linger over our coffees.




As if I needed any more convincing that you can find exceptional dining experiences on a budget in this city, this was the view across the park.



Lyne Park Café
600 New South Head Road, Rose Bay
Ph: 02 9388 3834